1 members (Scott35),
487
guests, and
13
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,273
Member
|
If the log cabin, proper, has been elevated to a second level, then floor boxes (pick your brand) solve your receptcacle runs.
Go with low voltage, wireless, controls for all lighting switches.
BTW, LEDs can be uniquely addressed if powered by Cat 5e cables. Google around on LED lumieres. They can turn corners on a dime and are inherently fire proof. These babies can even be color tuned -- from an iPad app.
You'll see video on them at Ask This Old House and DIY Network.
Cat 5 fishes a whole lot easier than MC.
The cost of the new style fixtures is largely offset by the ease of running wire in such old work.
Cheers.
Tesla
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 193
Member
|
I've wired a couple of houses where I installed plugmold onto the bottom of the cabinet, out of sight. If you ran mc in the cabinet and installed plug mold. you wouldn't touch the walls except to get power from one set of cabinets to another. Also installed LED tape lighting in the same installs. Worked wonderfully. Legrand makes a new modular system for undercabinet power, lights, attachments. Pretty neat, pricey, but neat. http://www.legrand.us/cabinet-lighting-power.aspx#.UtH2LvuFfUkI haven't used it yet.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,233
Member
|
I too, was going to say that I saw Wiremold installed in log homes. They would run it right in the joints, and then paint it to match the color of the joints. Then it would run parallel to the floor until it hit the corner, then turn down into the basement if it was on the first floor.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,928 Likes: 34
Member
|
If I was going with the surface raceway in the chinking I would use the plastic since it has a low, flat profile. With a combination of drilling, surface raceways and hiding in the cabinets you should be able to come up with a neat job.
Greg Fretwell
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 947
Member
|
Can you cut the plugs into the back splash?
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 98 Likes: 1
OP
Member
|
The back splash is the logs. Also, the counter top is granite, which I'm not going to try to drill through since I don't want it to crack and I have to replace it. I'm going with the metal conduit. Unfortunately the only pre-painted EMT the I can get is red. So I'll build it, take it back down, paint it and then put it back up.
BTW, for TWH or any other Canadians, in the current code and table 16, I have to use a #12 bonding conductor for #12 wires now?
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 947
Member
|
CSA has made a mess of our code.
It looks like you need a 12 bond with 12 wire, unless you use table 5C and derate the 12 wire. So, the more conductors you have in the conduit, the smaller the bond wire.
Maybe someone else has a better way to apply the rules?
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 98 Likes: 1
OP
Member
|
Thanks ghost, but it says right at the bottom of the page that the conduit is UL approved as opposed to ULC approved. We're not allowed to use it in Canada, at least until somebody's palm gets greased, I mean that the product gets certified.
Thanks TWH, it looks like I'll have to buy some green # 12.
|
|
|
Posts: 240
Joined: March 2005
|
|
|
|