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Joined: Jun 2004
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Has anyone used these small residential transfer switches made by APC (Scheider Electric) for standby portable generators? I saw one at a customers home the other day and they seem good. They can load shed if the draw goes over the generators capacity.

The one thing that I didn't like was there was no exterior control of the individual circuits and the overcurrent protection (fuses) are behind the cover, so the average homeowner can't reset/replace when tripped.

Just looking for comments from others who have used the product?


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Here is a link to the product...

http://www.apc.com/products/family/?id=371

Joined: Nov 2007
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K
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I’ve never actually seen one first hand before, but $513.99 for a 10-circuit panel seems a little steep. I would probably just recommend an interlock kit for $150.00 and put the extra $350.00 into a better generator. I think most customers would prefer to be able to do their own manual load selection and load shedding in an emergency situation rather than having circuits randomly and unexpectedly drop out, but I suppose if they want things to be as hands off as possible then this could be the transfer panel for them.

APC 10-Circuit MSRP

Joined: Jul 2004
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The interlock has the advantage that you are not rewiring branch circuits but load management may be beyond the capability of some homeowners.
The best way is to incorporate this transfer panel and designated emergency circuits into the original design but I doubt many home builders will spend that kind of money on regular houses. It is a nice feature if they do.


Greg Fretwell
Joined: Jun 2004
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This transfer switch has its overload protection (fuses) located behind the front cover. They are not accessible for the owner to replace.

Is this a violation of the code? 240.24?

shortcircuit

Joined: Jul 2004
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It sure sounds like a violation to me. This is what the user manual says in "trouble shooting"

Quote
Circuit Fault (no power on a circuit)
Possible Cause: The circuit breaker for this circuit may be tripped, or may have the wrong rating.
Solution: Reset the breaker, or have an electrician upgrade the breaker rating, as required.
Possible Cause: If there is still no power, the fuse may have blown.
Solution: Contact an electrician to replace the fuse.



I suppose they could call this supplemental protection but then it would need coordination with the BCOCD. If they are both the same size it is a race to see who blows.


Greg Fretwell
Joined: Nov 2007
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I’m wondering if maybe the UTS circuit breakers are the automatic resetting type, since they have this text in the Operation, Safety and Warranty PDF. It looks like you have to actually program the circuit Amps to be protected at setup.

Circuit Amp Rating
Warning: This setup option should be configured by a qualified electrician during the initial setup
and installation of the UTS.
Adhere to all national and local electrical codes when setting the Amp ratings for the UTS circuits.
Failure to comply with electrical codes could result in UTS malfunction and damage.
The factory default setting is 15 Amps. The Amps for each circuit on the UTS should
be set to match the Amp rating of the supporting circuit on the building circuit breaker.

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According to the manual, the UTS overcurrent protection is Littelfuse KLKR type fuses or equivalent.

Joined: Jul 2004
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I wonder how many homeowners have an insulated fuse puller?
My guess is it will be replaced with an FRN since that is what Home Depot sells.


Greg Fretwell
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 613
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techie...thats right...there is no circuit breakers with this transfer panel, only individual fuses located behind the removalable front cover...and everything is live with the cover removed. The owner can't shut off a circuit if there was an emergency when on generator supply...or replace a fuse without exposing themselfs to a live condition?

I'll have to look to article 702 to see if this is acceptable?

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