okay, withpout digging too far into the good book here,let's dwell on the concept(s)
we're suppose to bond the living daylights outta a pool for the benifit of an equopotential plane, which greatly enhances the efficy of gfci protection right?
so here is this 220V gas fired pool heater, comes with a #8 externally mounted ground lug , says zip about gfci protection, and states in bold letters Do Not Bond to Pool Motor, ground to 'approved earth ground only'
excuse me? are we talking G-rods? what?
I've installed two 2p-gfci breakers (inside) feeding out to the pump motor and heater respectively here, with an outside disco for each, just in case....
i've also bonded it all together back to the pool's bond because that's what's been drilled into me (as well as the '08 nec)
if the infernal thing can't live on a gfci i'm not sure i'd be comfortable deleting it here...
What brand heater is this? I don't see anything like that in my StaRite heater instructions. That is one reason why I am not 100% in favor of making 110.3(B) gospel. Just because something gets translated from Chinese to say something stupid, I will still trump it with the NEC requirements. The intent is that you can't get power to the heater unless the pump is running, hence down stream of the timer. That timer is also supposed to be 2 stage so it runs the pump 15 minutes after the heater stops. Without a timer you lose that safety feature. If the heater is wired directly to power it is even worse than that and you are depending on the flow/pressure switch to prevent a "dry fire". As for bonding, we all know what the right answer is.
Sparky: I'm confused now....why 220 volts to a gas fired heater?? Something in it require 220?
Ya definitely have to do as Greg said...run the pump for a cool down period, or the heater will kinda self destruct really soon. AS to the bonding....perhaps 'earth' as '08 def for ground? Lost in a language translation.