ECN Forum Forums General Topics of the Trade General Discussion Area Range/oven disconnect

Ed:
If it is written, it is enforced. I have no stock in any electrical equipment mfg co, I am not the inventor of the bubble cover, "Kenny Clamp", TR devices, AFCI breakers, etc.

I understand your feelings. Remember cars without seatbelts, air bags, metal dashboards, radios with metal knobs, car seats that were basically hollow tube frame with vinyl seat, back and no harness?

As to the competance of anyone to de-energize a circuit, and not to turn on anything they did not turn off...that is beyond my job titles

Usually no problem installing a receptacle for the oven if it's mounted on the floor, but if it's mounted in a cabinet the breaker is the disconnect. I have never put the breaker-lock on and have fortunately never failed for it.

Hey John I finally got my license number issued. It's NJ 16557 and business name is Classic Electric. Hope to see you out there soon.

Ed I really think the elimination of the exception for ranges and dryers was only to make the code more consistent. If you can accept the logic of a 3 wire dryer cord it is hard to explain why connecting the ground pin of a NEMA 5-15 to the neutral is wrong.
Phil Simmonds said "the war is over" it was time to bring the code into compliance with 250.6.

IMO.,,

Either plug or a A/C pullout device will work for cooktop even wallovens it will be much safer than try to run all the way down and kill that breaker and LOTO it.

I can go one of few ways to meet the modern codes.

In France must have a disconnect switch right next to the cooker unit { range }

Merci,Marc

Over here with a range (free-standing sort) you are required to have a 32 Amp isolator, mounted on the wall to one side of the appliance (ie: cannot be directly above the appliance, for safety reasons).
And you have to have a 4 pin socket behind the range, to connect the 32Amp flex/plug into.

Any means of locking the circuit out would be at the panel end (ie: a circuit breaker lock-dog, padlock and lock-out tag).

However, with the electric cooktop/ wall oven combo's that are becoming ever more common over here, you would need a 20A circuit for the cooktop and a 25A circuit for the wall-oven.
2 isolators and 2 circuit breakers, often the subcircuit cables (after the isolators) are wired directly into the terminals of the appliances.

The code specifically says you can have a disconnect behind a drawer for a "range". Most AHJs extend that to ovens and cooktops. Installers put the receptacle in the cabinet.