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#174545 02/07/08 10:11 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 187
HCE727 Offline OP
Member
What would you do if you had a 14' island, with a sink, that has an overhang of 12" on three sides and cabinet drawers and doors on the other. Where do you put the outlets or do you even have to put them by code?


Hank
HCE727 #174548 02/07/08 10:41 PM
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 38
V
Member
Plugmold on GFCI? It has worked for me in the past. Some islands are a real pain to meet code and look good. Wiremold and plugmold can be faux finished to blend in. Good luck Rod

venture #174569 02/08/08 12:05 PM
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 763
K
Member
When you find Tamper Resistant plugmold, please let me know.

If the space behind the sink is 12” or more, according to 210.52[C][3], it is considered a single counter space and you would only need one receptacle for the entire island, regardless of it’s length.
If the space behind the sink is less than 12” then it is considered two separate counter spaces and you would then need two receptacles, one for each of the “separate” counter spaces. You can put more in if you want, but that is up to you.
I usually mount the receptacles on the ends, close to the working side of the island or peninsula. That would normally be the kitchen side, or in your case, probably whatever side your sink faces and the faucet is controlled from. Even with the countertop overhanging the base, putting the receptacle close to the edge of the working side of the island allows for less than 6” of overhang to get to the receptacle. Most inspectors understand the frustration of trying to comply with the NEC and the reality of island and peninsula design and receptacle installation.
I have also flush mounted the receptacles in the face of the base cabinet between drawers when space allowed, but sometimes it just isn’t possible.
Plugmold is an option, but I haven’t seen it in TR yet.



KJay #174573 02/08/08 12:52 PM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,663
Likes: 4
G
Member
Interesting point on the plugmold. I imagine the manufacturers will come out with some unless they want to abandon the residential market.
If you still have some influence on the cabinet design you should see if they can give you a few inches of dead space for your receptacles. It will benefit both of you if you can make this look like something "planned" instead of just added on.
These are the times when the various trades need to be talking to each other and working together for the real boss ... the customer.


Greg Fretwell
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 717
M
Member
I will glue/secure with screws a decorative wood blocking upside down on the underside of the 12" overhang such that it is within 6 " of the edge, and mount a surface box onto the outside face of that. Strickly speaking, this is still a violation since the specified code does not actually state that the outlet must not be within 6" of the edge, but rather the overhang must not be more than 6". However, the local inspectors seem to like my fix and have always passed it with a pat on the back.

Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5
G
New Member
Some islands can be impossible to meet code.

On occasion I've had to have the builder make one of the drawers a fixed unit so that it's not operable as a drawer anymore. Then cut your outlet into the face of the drawer.

HCE727 #175211 02/24/08 10:48 PM
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 853
L
Member
Originally Posted by HCE727
What would you do if you had a 14' island, with a sink, that has an overhang of 12" on three sides and cabinet drawers and doors on the other. Where do you put the outlets or do you even have to put them by code?


I would say, "None required".

leland #175216 02/25/08 07:57 AM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,213
S
Member
Install this over the island, problem solved:

[Linked Image from northerntool.com]

Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 139
B
Member
There are a few companies manufacturing "Pop-up" receptacle outlets for coutertop applications, however I have not seen any listed for use as a substitute for permanent wiring. The ones I have seen are cord-and-plug connected below the counter-top and are listed as 'relocatable power taps'.


Bryan P. Holland, ECO.
Secretary - IAEI Florida Chapter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,663
Likes: 4
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I still think this is an issue that should have been addressed by the cabinet man in the original design. I wish I lived in a world where the various trades worked closer with each other. Maybe it is the "U" word but there is so much compartmentalism in the building business that we find ourselves stuck in these problems. It would have been trivial for the cabinet guys to give you a spot for the required receptacles in an appendage that matched the cabinet design ... if they understood the requirements beforehand.
Is this addressed at all in plan review?


Greg Fretwell
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