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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 119
So I got alot of extra 12 AWG stranded hanging around and I was wondering if I can use it for speaker wire.(I'm currently using 16 AWG lamp cord that the insulation is falling off at the ends and this is the only other wire I have) I live in an apartment so none of this is going to go in the wall. I also want to know if its safe to use tyraps to bundle the two 12Guauge conductors together also (If I can even use THHN or THWN as speaker wire) Thanks

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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 812
If it's not too big for the speaker and receiver terminals, I say go for it.

This reminds me, I have about 50feet of 12/2NM scraps I have to use...

Ian A.

Is there anyone on board who knows how to fly a plane?
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,723
Likes: 1
Broom Pusher and
No problem using the #12 THHN Stranded for Speaker Leads.

Would be a good idea to "Tin" the ends, so they fit solidly and cleanly to the Terminals at the Speakers and the Power Amp.
Do this by applying Solder to newly stripped ends of each Conductor.

As to the zip ties, feel free to use them.
You could also bundle a pair of leads with small segments of Electrical Tape, at 12" intervals (costs less than zip ties).

Keep the bundles separate (only bundle the 2 wires for a given channel), however, you may run bundles "together" (near each other).

Additional Audio lead tweeks may be employed, depending on how far you want to go - and the output power of the Power Amp.

As said previously, the #12 THHN Stranded will work fine for Audio Speaker leads, as long as your Power Amp is not something capable of delivering a huge level of Power to the Loudspeakers.

If your Audio Amp does not exceed 100 Watts per channel output (into an equivalent quoted Impedance), and the leads are not too long (Amp is in the Garage, Speakers are in the Master Bedroom...overboard example), then the #12 is fine.

Higher Power levels would need larger Conductor sizes, or "Parallel-Lead" techniques.

FYI: "Parallel-Lead" = Running separate pairs of "+" and "-" leads to each Speaker Enclosure, with a "Dedicated" Pair for the Subwoofer, and another "Dedicated" Pair for the Midrange + Tweeter (or a pair to each driver).
Reconfiguring the Crossover's inputs is needed at each Speaker.


Scott " 35 " Thompson
Just Say NO To Green Eggs And Ham!
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 119
The amp is a only 100 watts per channel so I'm ok. I rewired my two speakers (I have a surround Dolby DTS amp but only enough money for 2 speakers and I have old ones at that Receiver is from 2001 Pioneer VSX-D711) So I only made up to sets of wires and it barely fit into my recievers back terminals but had no problems with the speakers. Even though I have old crappy speakers I think it sounds a little better now. I said Tywraps because I had a box of 5000 of them (I work on computers and I like the insides of the cases to look neat)
Thanks for the responses

Theres always enough room in the junction box.You just need a bigger hammer
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 886
We actually do use THHN use for speakers where the wire must be pulled through pipe or those Class 1 speaker wiring jobs. Usually black and red, we buy from Clifford and have them twist it up and put it on a reel.

So here is my suggestion. Instead of those ty-raps pull off two lengths, strip one end of each, twist them together good and tight and chuck it in your drill. Tie the free end to something that isn't going to move then pull it tight and start your drill. Twist them up so they have a nice uniform twist.

Going to look lots better than ty-raps.


Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 119
Ok will try I already made it up with the ty-wraps but twisting them toghter will look alot better time to remake my wires. My colors I had are black,white. Thanks again

Theres always enough room in the junction box.You just need a bigger hammer

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