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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,236
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[Linked Image] Hoo boy...

I had always considered those type of connectors "junk"... some cheapo poor excuse for a connector some "ferrin" outfit supplies...

I've always replaced them with 3/4" NM Connectors. I really hadn't thought about the listing violations.

Guess I need to learn how to install the dern things right... The only time I tried to use one, I gave up after it fell out a few times due to the weight of the cord.


-Virgil
Residential/Commercial Inspector
5 Star Inspections
Member IAEI
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 324
A
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66, I'm with you on that! But since I havent put on a three wire flat cord in about six years I'll stick to the 3/4" NWT connector for the round cord. Just don't tell anyone!

Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 558
C
Member
Joe - Why is that the only connector that should be used? I seen nothing wrong with using a 2-screw cable connector. What type of connector are we supposed to use when installing cords on disposals and dishwashers since they don't include one? The connectors included with range and dryer cords will NOT work with K.O. provided many of the appliances. Even if they do fit most of the time they will come right out if you move the cord around.

If you go to T&B's web site and look at connectors 3302 - 3311 it says "Non-Metallic Sheathed Cable and Flexible Cord Connectors".

Curt

[This message has been edited by caselec (edited 09-14-2002).]


Curt Swartz
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,749
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I just looked at a new 30A, 125/250V, 10/3 AWG SRDT, 6ft dryer cord here in SEARS that was supplied with a similar fitting like the one above. I then looked at another cord of the same configuration and found a different type of nonmetallic connetor that was supplied with a nonmetallic locknut, so I guess that I would be wrong by saying ONLY.


I would not have any problems if I could be sure that the connector was properly installed.


Joe Tedesco, NEC Consultant
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,233
H
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Joe,

ouldn't it be better using the cord, because there you have your disconnect. If it is hard wired wouldn't you need a breaker lock?

Caper

Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 5,392
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good point harold endean.....

yet the average homeowner is unaware of LOTO, and the appliance on/off is usually not LOTO friendly....

we could progress to 422.34....430.42....430.102....etc,etc....

Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,236
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Naw, mount a SqD 70A Disco on the wall above the Unit for them to admire...

[Linked Image]


-Virgil
Residential/Commercial Inspector
5 Star Inspections
Member IAEI
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,749
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Caper:

Not very common to see a disconnect used in dwellings, and if a cord it to be considered as the way to disconnect an electric range it has to meet the conditions here:

422.33 Disconnection of Cord-and-Plug-Connected Appliances.


(B) Connection at the Rear Base of a Range. For cord-and-plug-connected household electric ranges, an attachment plug and receptacle connection at the rear base of a range, if it is accessible from the front by removal of a drawer, shall be considered as meeting the intent of 422.33(A).


Joe Tedesco, NEC Consultant
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 5,392
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I understand there are some area's that require a counter top switch for the dishwasher, in addition to it's integral one

anyone care to comment?

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,457
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I always put a cord on the dishwasher and a receptacle under the sink. Keeps me from wondering where a "unit switch with a marked off positon" applies.

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