I usually like to have more than 1 circuit represented in each room. Not dedicated, but so that all in a room are not on same circuit. Maybe follow outside walls on 1 and inside walls on another.
If I can sell it I'll even sometimes run 'Generator Circuits' throughout house to pick up necessary lighting (Hallway, Bathroom, Basement) and a light and receptacle in each room. This can usually be done with 2 or 3 circuits plus Furnace, Refrig, and Well pump (if exists) for a total of 5 - 6. This gives nice coverage around House and it can be run on a 5k Generator.
Re: Designated circuits#1224 05/02/0106:07 AM05/02/0106:07 AM
I've seen a few posts regarding not using #14. In a residentail job, I would think that it would increase costs significantly due to the additional planning and materials associated with box fill issues. Thoughts?
Re: Designated circuits#1226 05/02/0107:36 AM05/02/0107:36 AM
I've pretty much used 12 for residential apps also. Seems it was easier w/ the 20A circs, as I could cover more space w/ less circuits.(used to do some big houses). If you plan it to use the uncrowded (ie. smoke detector) boxes for your junction points, there's really not much prob w/ box fill. Circuits? Bill's got the ticket here. The Gen Circs are a great idea.
Re: Designated circuits#1228 05/02/0108:16 AM05/02/0108:16 AM
I've done #12 throughout Houses and as a standard I'm not convinced that it's better overall. I would agree that it would be better for feeders to lessen Voltage drop and larger incidental loads. But as far as connection to the devices goes I'm not sure it should be used with standard-grade wiring devices. It sometimes seems that terminal screws cannot be tightened sufficiently to securely hold the wire. They sometimes get stripped out or come loose when the devices are pushed back into the box.
Real World: From a job pricing standpoint #12 costs more, needs larger boxes or special routing to avoid it (more wire) takes more time wiring devices and folding into boxes and may need spec grade devices. It's certainly an option that could be offered to the builder/owner, but if you went with this as your standard and were competing for price against others using #14 you'd be starving.
That's just the way it is. If they change the code minimum to #12 then everyone's at 'apples to apples'
Re: Designated circuits#1229 05/02/0109:13 AM05/02/0109:13 AM
Bill, What brand of devices do you use? I've never had a problem with #12 in Leviton or Eagle brand switches and recepts (15A).
Lighting I use a J box or two in the attic. The HR is to the J Box, and the Feeders "spider" out to each Sw box. The only thing in the Sw boxes are the feeder and the switched leg, or just a switch loop.
As far as #14... I've seen way too many old #14 wires in very poor shape. Corroded green on 1/3 of it's diameter, and very brittle from heat. I've seen #12 in the same location (and presumably, the same age) that was in convincingly better shape.
Warranties may only last a year, but I like my work to last a little longer than that.
-Virgil Residential/Commercial Inspector 5 Star Inspections Member IAEI