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#11410 07/11/02 08:21 PM
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 196
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Cindy Offline OP
Member
can someone point me to a switch that can be used for two appliances? not sure if this is ok or not ---- but i wanted to take an existing circuit switch leg flexed into the garbage disposal and flex it into a j-box to use it for both a disposal and a 120v instant hot water heater --- so i'd blank and abandon the wall switch and run the old switch leg black, white, and egc as the 120v circuit to be shared from the j-box, then go from the j-box to a cabinet front double throw switch {????) and take the switch leg back into the disposal, and another into the instant h.w.heater------ so that when the switch is to the left the disposal operates, and when it's to the right then the h.w.heater operates, which would obviously be the normal position except for the rare occasions that the disposal is needed.

i think the double throw switch isn't the right term [they open/close 2 legs like 240 or 277, or 2 motors together, right?], and i'm not sure if there's any code problem here...... probably something obvious huh? never claimed to be smart [Linked Image]

#11411 07/11/02 09:06 PM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 558
C
Member
Cindy

You are correct with the term double throw switch. Just use a standard 3-way switch. Connect the hot to the common terminal, the disposal to one of the traveler terminals and the instant hot to the other traveler terminal. Another option would be to use an air switch designed just for this application. ISE and Franke make them. They plug into a constant hot receptacle and have two receptacles on the air switch box. One for the disposal and one for the instant hot. When you press the button it turns the disposal on and the instant hot off.

Curt


Curt Swartz
#11412 07/11/02 09:40 PM
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 196
C
Cindy Offline OP
Member
thanks curt, found an air switch here: http://www.homeportfolio.com/catalog/Listing.jhtml?catId=483&avId=13970

always embarrassing to find something i haven't dealt with before. let me see if i understand ---- it's just a push button switch that's in some kind of receptacle housing with a pigtail on it that you plug into any receptacle? then you plug the disposer into this receptacle-housing air-switch-box, and it has another receptacle to plug the instant h.w. into?

thought about the 3-way idea, but it sounded too easy --- thought it should be harder than that [Linked Image]

i didn't want to run another circuit inside the walls or underfloor, so this sounds like the trick

#11413 07/11/02 09:43 PM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 914
E
Member
This sounds like a great plan to me. I can't think of a reason why you couldn't do it, although if posible I would fish a wire from the current switch box for the instant hot and replace the current switch with a 3 way. If someone knows of a code against it Ihope they post it. This could really come in handy.

#11414 07/11/02 09:53 PM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 558
C
Member
Cindy

The push button is separate from the air switch box. It can be mounted in a spare hole in the sink, a hole in the counter or where ever you feel like mounting it. The button connects to the switch box with clear plastic tubing (like for aquariums) included with the kit.

Curt


Curt Swartz
#11415 07/11/02 10:02 PM
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 196
C
Cindy Offline OP
Member
cool, where would you find one? i think i might try the air switch just for fun

and thanks dbl-E, but this is really an ugly fishin hole, looking for a quick clean unscrew it, wire nut it, drill it, rescrew it, no mess, in and out in 15 kinda-thing

#11416 07/11/02 11:11 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 324
A
Member
I get my air switches from an appliance dealer. They are made by the ISE disposal company. Runs about $50 bucks or so. Works great and they come with all the parts you need.

#11417 07/12/02 01:03 PM
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,749
Member
Cindy:

I would discourage this effort using the methods you are discussing. This is not the normal way for these appliances to be disconnected, and would present an unusual situation that would be difficult for some to understand.

Review the 2002 NEC Article 422, Part III. Disconnecting Means


[This message has been edited by Joe Tedesco (edited 07-13-2002).]


Joe Tedesco, NEC Consultant
#11418 07/12/02 07:03 PM
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 196
C
Cindy Offline OP
Member
thanks for the input, but i guess i'm not able to see the problem yet...... have you wired them using this combination and had difficulty? what was the problem? electrical theory wise? i can't see that the electrons are going to have trouble with it. and it seems like an efficient use of materials. how often do we use the disposer conductors to run the disposer? seems like i might as well use them for something else when they're not busy. if there is a listing that only allows these switches to be used with one appliance, then why would they have two places to connect the appliances? i'm groping in the dark here, because i've not installed one before?

there's only one ungrounded conductor to disconnect from each appliance, no different than the single snap switch, right?

the loadcenter provides the primary disconnecting means, the receptacles would provide a secondary disconnecting means.

if it's wrong it's wrong, but help me out? 422 and 110 seem to allow it, assuming it's listed for the appliances. i'm wondering if your caution was just in regards to the homeowner who might not understand the 3-way switch used for both. guess they'd be in just as much trouble with 3-ways in a hall, so i'm still wondering -----

does everyone think this is a bad idea? i respect all opinions ..... except my own [Linked Image]

#11419 07/12/02 07:22 PM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 558
C
Member
Joe

The disconnecting means for the disposal and the instant hot unit would be their supply cords. I don't see any problem doing what she wants to do. The 3-way switch method might confuse some people but is no different that using a standard single pole switch for the disposal but it prevents the instant hot from running at the same time. The instant hot is normally plugged into to a constantly hot receptacle. The air switch is UL listed and designed for this application. Please explain why you do not feel this installation does not meet the NEC.

Curt


Curt Swartz
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