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Joined: Nov 2000
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George,
Quote

As for permanently installed, it gets done all the time with UL's blessing by virtue of the fact that most of them come with tabs, ears or slots for mounting.
I haven't seen any with tabs, but the ones with keyhole slots cannot be permanently installed as there is no way to tighten the screw. The plug strip just sets on the screw.
Don


Don(resqcapt19)
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Joined: Mar 2005
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NJ_WVUGrad, it costs the same to contract out a $20 job as it does to contract out a $500,000 job. We get charged a flat fee for "design" and a flat fee for "oversight". So even the smallest job will cost $5000 right off the bat. I guess I could put in a trouble call and complain the outlet is "broken" and needs replaced, which would only cost $500... but paying $500 for a $20 job is still waste. And a lie.

It doesn't actually cost $500 for a hammer- not if you buy a case of 1000 of them at a time. It's when you buy just 1 that it gets outrageous.

I saw an easy solution, one I can safely do myself without ruffling anyone's feathers, and end up with a safe product in the end, even if it doesn't look like the standard way of doing it. I'm well capable of bending EMT and putting boxes precisely where they need to go, but not authorized to do work like that myself- hardwiring a surge supressor, though, that's different!

This disconnect is fed from 3x 15A breakers on a single yoke. It's a fused disconnect switch and missing the fuses (1/phase), so I'd have to install some fuses, but that's not a big deal. (There are 2x 20A fuses in another abanded switch I could use, considering the breaker is already protecting the cable, but I'd rather use 15A) There's a fitting on the switch already, left over from the previous usage, but I didn't look too closely- I highly doubt it's the right kind, but I don't mind swinging by the supply house and spending $2 out of pocket for the right one. So, 15A breaker, 15A fuse and 15A breaker on the surge supressor itself- should be pretty well protected!

I'd want to mount the surge supressor(s) to the wall to make the install look cleaner, but that's just a couple expanding drywall screws.

Joined: Jan 2004
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Responce to Don:

Quote
I haven't seen any with tabs, but the ones with keyhole slots cannot be permanently installed as there is no way to tighten the screw. The plug strip just sets on the screw.
Don
I wonder how Bob [iWire] mounted his? But you are correct about the ability to tighten the screws or nail the units to the surface. I personally have bolted them to a surface using bolts and nuts to 1/2" plywood. The feet of the unit were turned in so a self taping screw could not be used. I inspected it myself and gave myself a green sticker smile


George Little
Joined: Jan 2003
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The one I just did had four keyhole slots on the back.

I ran four screws into the bench adjusting them so that I had to bang the plug strip onto them with my fist.

Then I ran a fifth screw in at the end so it could not slip off the key hole slots.

I say it is not 'permanently' mounted, it is just secured for the time being. wink

It simply plugs directly into a wall receptacle.


Bob Badger
Construction & Maintenance Electrician
Massachusetts
Joined: Jan 2004
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George Little likes it.


George Little
Joined: Nov 2002
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Quote
Well, try to imagine what might happen to a plug under those conditions... (If you're having trouble imagining, it looks something like this: http://www.aeronavlabs.com/shockfirst30degreemarlocoil.wmv ) Anyhow, that's why I didn't hesitate to consider just lopping off the plug and hardwiring.
Well one could use twist lock plugs and outlets.

Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,213
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Quote
Well one could use twist lock plugs and outlets.
Well, commercial twist-lock plugs unfortunately fail under those conditions, and generally give off too much toxic smoke when they burn. Hell, most commercial products in generally fail under those conditions!

There are mil-spec plugs that are shock rated (and obscenely expensive) but considering all the equipment, including desks and file cabinets, are generally bolted to specially constructed steel foundations that are welded to the structure of the ship, it's not really necessary to use a plug at all for most stuff, and a lot easier and cheaper and takes far less man-hours just to hardwire it- costs about the same to hardwire a plug as it does to install a dedicated 115VAC receptacle.

There are every variety under the sun, but here's a typical MIL-C-26482 plug:
[Linked Image from schusterusa.com]

Hardwired cord with the NEMA plug chopped off is mostly for commercial stuff adapted for use. Actual mil-spec equipment will never have a cord and plug like that- you don't plug it in, you run a special cable straight from the power panel and plug the cable into the mil-spec equipment. Same with all the data cabling.

Joined: Jan 2006
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What gives you the idea that because you are a PE, you are qualified to perform commercial/government electrical work.

We all work very hard to build a reputation, pay the proper insurances and business permit & license fees and all other associated costs.

I do not agree with the intent of this thread nor the message you are sending to your subordinates or higher-ups at you installation, wherever it mat be

Joined: Mar 2005
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Why have you taken such offense to this thread?

I've worked hard for my licenses and reputation too, and worked extremely hard to get my current position and authority. This is all within my authority and qualifications. I just rarely get my hands dirty because my program's funds aren't unlimited, and I can't afford my own labor rate for work like this. The only reason I'm involved at all is that the suppo asked for my help. I tell ya, after this little escapade, he's going to owe me a new data logging fluke too!

As to what by higher-ups think, I told them straight up what I wanted to do (6 dedicated receptacles, each on 20A circuits, fed via EMT with compression couplings from the distribution panel) and was shot down by my boss, a naval captain, who told me straight up to do it on the cheap. I report to him, it's his call if he wants to make it. I won't condone anything unsafe, but the only thing "unsafe" about this is that it will look cheezy. But it will be hidden anyhow, so that doesn't really matter.

Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 25
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ok so if that is what you want to do then do it. nobody's stopping you, but we're not blessing this installation either as it isn't good practice. to me it sounds as though you just want someone to say "good job!" it should be clear that nobody's going to. it's a shame that it would cost so much to do it right. good luck.

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