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HPS Fixture Question #10003
05/25/02 08:31 AM
05/25/02 08:31 AM
Bill Addiss  Offline OP
Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,903
NY, USA
If an HPS fixture was relamped and it lights but someone complains that it is not as bright as before, what could be the problem? I believe that the bulb is right (150W), but what would happen if it was not? What would happen with a 150W bulb in a 70W Fixture?

Or, is this a sign that some internal part(s) had failed?

Thanks for any replies

Bill

Work Gear for Electricians and the Trades
Re: HPS Fixture Question #10004
05/25/02 02:16 PM
05/25/02 02:16 PM
B
Bjarney  Offline
Moderator
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,527
West-Southern Inner-Northeast ...
Possibly http://www.sperolighting.com/ballast.html#High%20Pressure%20Sodium or http://www.advancetransformer.com/techcenter/hid/hid.pdf?L1=6&L2=0&L3=0&L4=0 >page 44.

Seems that overlamping will run normally scorching ballasts even hotter. (A catalog lookup may be the only method to verify this.) If the lamp starts OK, it’s probably not an igniter problem.

Re: HPS Fixture Question #10005
05/25/02 03:01 PM
05/25/02 03:01 PM
Bill Addiss  Offline OP
Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,903
NY, USA
It seemed to light up ok, but it was daytime.

Re: HPS Fixture Question #10006
05/25/02 03:07 PM
05/25/02 03:07 PM
G
golf junkie  Offline
Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 507
York, NE
Bjarney,

Great link, lots of info.

thanks,
GJ

Re: HPS Fixture Question #10007
06/03/02 07:30 PM
06/03/02 07:30 PM
Bill Addiss  Offline OP
Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,903
NY, USA
I noticed that the photocell did not turn the light off (bright sun). Could a bad photocell cause the bulb to be dimmer or not come up to full brightness?

Bill

Re: HPS Fixture Question #10008
06/03/02 09:33 PM
06/03/02 09:33 PM
B
Bjarney  Offline
Moderator
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,527
West-Southern Inner-Northeast ...
The first thing to look for is good voltage out of the photocell into the ballast. Connect voltmeter leads to the {typically, dude!} red and white leads from the photocell socket.

A Rough Guide on voltage range and plugin photo controls:
voltage {nominal—max/min} and plugin photo controls
120V—127/106  Grey top 105-130V {or dark blue 105-285V}
208V—220/184  Maroon top 200-300V {dark blue 105-285V}
240V—254/212  Maroon top 200-300V {dark blue 105-285V}
277V—293/245  Maroon top 200-300V (dark blue 105-285V}
347V—367/306  Green top 250-400V (Up North, eh?)
480V—508/424  Yellow top 400-550V
http://www.fisherpierce.com/PDFFiles/7700.pdf

Photocells can be a pain, because sometimes they have delayed operation [so clouds don’t fake ‘em out] and some are sensitive enough in broad daylight that your fingers or palm of your hand may not do the trick. It may take a couple of layers of pipewrap and a few minutes of waiting to see a good on and off operation. {Get a Hastings ‘PECT’ on an extendo stick of you work on them reqularly} If it’s HPS, watch your fingers/butt/nose and don’t get bit by the several-kV starting pulse at the lamp socket. If the igniter hasn’t correctly sensed that the arc is initiated, it may give several shots, and they may seem a bit random, so pay attention.






[This message has been edited by Bjarney (edited 06-03-2002).]


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