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Joined: Feb 2004
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Hi, I used to just stub out a 10/2 w grnd at the water heater and bond the cold water.
What is the best way to do it now?
Do I need to run flex over to the heater itself?
Do I need to bond the hot and cold together back to the panel?
Thanks for any comments.
-regards
Greg
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,931 Likes: 34
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They want to see a disconnect around here and that is usually where the electrician stops, although he still "owns" the wire going to the water heater if there is a violation. I see them run in everything from just Romex to FMC, MC or SealTite. I haven't seen metal water pipe in so long I tend to forget about bonding
Greg Fretwell
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Hi, yes that is why I am asking because what used to be ok may not be the norm nowadays...I havent heard of a disco being required at the heater itself. This is not a code requirement is it?
I will probably just use my old standard...stub out the 10/2 wgrnd and use a romex connector toconnect it to the heater itself.
See any problem with that?
Most everything around here is Copper.
-regards
Greg
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Joined: Jan 2001
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Greg,
A disconnect may be required, depending on where the water heater is located in relationship to the panel that feeds it. A water heater is an appliance, so check out 422.31(B)
Tom
Few things are harder to put up with than the annoyance of a good example.
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Joined: Jan 2003
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Almost everything we wire needs a disconnecting means within sight.
There are some exceptions and also sometimes ways around it with breaker locks.
As Tom pointed out check out 422.31(B) for water heater.
Bob Badger Construction & Maintenance Electrician Massachusetts
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Joined: Feb 2004
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Hi, The water heater certainly exceeds the 300w limit. The circuit breaker is NOT within sight but it can be locked in the open position with a breaker lock-out.
Should I just put a non fused disco at all water heaters and forget it? What is the norm anymore?
Thanks for the code ref.
-regards
Greg
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Joined: Nov 2003
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Breaker locks are approved here and are cheaper than a disco.
John
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Joined: Jan 2001
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If I was the AHJ on an inspection for a water heater, I would accept a breaker padlock device manufactured by the same company that made the breaker/panelboard.
Many mobile/manufactured homes have an electric water heater & every one that i have looked at has a padlock attachment on the breaker. This makes HUD happy & so a similar installation in a dwelling should satisfy any AHJ you deal with, but it is always best to ask if you aren't sure.
You could use one of those $8 pull out air conditioner disconnects just to CYA, but IMO, you'd be wasting $8 & some time.
Tom
Few things are harder to put up with than the annoyance of a good example.
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