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#8629 - 03/30/02 10:53 AM retorqueing the meter
Trainwire Offline
Member

Registered: 03/15/02
Posts: 364
Loc: Strasburg,PA,USA
General Question
Is it a good/necessary practice to go back and retorque the terminals in a new service?
Like after a year or so? The lugs were tightened using a recently calibrated torque wrench ( you do have one on the truck, to fulfill the "tag instruction requirement"
don't you?) when the service was put in, and now a year later I am curious if they should be checked. Just not sure if I trust the aluminum wire.
Aluminum feeder down from the weather head, copper from the meter into the panel.
Thanks for your input.

Trainwire

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#8630 - 03/30/02 11:52 AM Re: retorqueing the meter
golf junkie Offline
Member

Registered: 04/22/01
Posts: 511
Loc: York, NE
Trainwire,
While I haven't done this as general practice I can tell you that you're right about aluminum wire. It will always "loosen up" in the lug after a few days.

The biggest problem with is this is the service interuption required to tighten the lugs.

GJ

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#8631 - 03/30/02 02:58 PM Re: retorqueing the meter
electure Offline

Member

Registered: 12/24/00
Posts: 4226
Loc: Fullerton, CA USA
You probably shouldn't retorque aluminum connections, but rather reterminate them completely. Golf Junkie's right. They will loosen soon.
If you retorque them, they'll cut into the conductor...and loosen soon...and retorque...until there's no conductor left.
If it was done correctly in the first place, the torque value from the panel mfr. already took into account this loosening, and you're fine.

[This message has been edited by electure (edited 03-30-2002).]

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#8632 - 03/31/02 06:11 AM Re: retorqueing the meter
Tom Offline
Member

Registered: 01/01/01
Posts: 1069
Loc: Shinnston, WV USA
If you torque to the proper value, the slight loosening that will occur has been taken into account. Leave them undisturbed & they will be OK.

Next time you rip out something with aluminum conductors, try tightening a terminal, you'll usually be able to turn it 1/2 to 1 full turn, yet there won't be any evidence of a loose connection.

Tom
_________________________
Few things are harder to put up with than the annoyance of a good example.

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#8633 - 03/31/02 02:22 PM Re: retorqueing the meter
sparky66wv Offline
Member

Registered: 11/17/00
Posts: 2339
Loc: West Virginia
In trying to be the first sparky on my block to be compliant, I've found that the Klein brand torque wrenches and screwdriver kit is a whopping $1500!!! I absolutely don't have that kind of money for a tool that I haven't "needed" before... Am I out of business now?
_________________________
-Virgil
Residential/Commercial Inspector
5 Star Inspections
Member IAEI

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#8634 - 04/01/02 07:17 AM Re: retorqueing the meter
Trainwire Offline
Member

Registered: 03/15/02
Posts: 364
Loc: Strasburg,PA,USA
Thanks guys. That's what I figured, I replaced the Federal Pacific fuse panel that was "fuzzing" when my wife was running the dryer. (dryer fuse holder would get too hot to touch!) Uprated everything from the 100amp fuses to a Square D 200 Amp homeline.
The lights blink just ever so slightly when a high load, (sewer pump, a/c compressor) come on. It is probably the fact that the Power company did not upsize the drop in from the pole. I was mentally troubleshooting the blink.

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#8635 - 04/01/02 10:22 AM Re: retorqueing the meter
motor-T Offline
Member

Registered: 11/10/01
Posts: 293
Loc: Girard, Ohio, USA
Sparky66

Is that the Klein set that comes with two torque wrenches and a screwdriver(torque-type) and a bunch of bits ? I got a quote of $975 on that one, but that will have to wait so I ordered the screw-driver instead it cost 135.00, This stuff must be calibrated via WWV in Fort Collins Co.
The thing that gets me is not so much torquing requirements but trying to tork a slotted head screw, I got about a half a dozen adaptors for my 3/8 drive in-# wrench a
the manufactruers could make it alot easier if hex or allen type heads were used.
-Mark

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#8636 - 04/01/02 10:37 AM Re: retorqueing the meter
Trainwire Offline
Member

Registered: 03/15/02
Posts: 364
Loc: Strasburg,PA,USA
The parts I had, was 1/2 inch hex in the meter base and 3/8allen in the panel, no muss no fuss no embarrasen' questions.
Trainwire

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#8637 - 04/01/02 12:58 PM Re: retorqueing the meter
smurf Offline
Member

Registered: 03/31/02
Posts: 31
Loc: Benton, Ar. USA
When you been in the bidness as long as I have, you'll learn to torque by feel-just to the point of stripping.

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#8638 - 04/01/02 01:07 PM Re: retorqueing the meter
motor-T Offline
Member

Registered: 11/10/01
Posts: 293
Loc: Girard, Ohio, USA
smurf:
I just gotta comment on this one. My neighbors son was putting an engine together and asked his father how much torque he needed on the Head bolts and his father told him to, tighten the bolts all the way down til they wont go anymore, then one full turn, snapped a couple before the father realized the kid took him seriously.
Or then theres the old rule of the thumb, tighten them down til they smoke.
-Mark-

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