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#71103 - 10/22/06 07:10 AM Knob & Tube
HCE727 Offline
Member
Registered: 11/11/05
Posts: 190
Loc: Delaware County, PA, USA
Is there any kind of a crimp, that is legal, for a run of K&T, that some one tapped off of.

[This message has been edited by HCE727 (edited 10-22-2006).]

[This message has been edited by HCE727 (edited 10-22-2006).]
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#71104 - 10/22/06 07:16 AM Re: Knob & Tube
Tiger Offline
Member
Registered: 05/04/05
Posts: 714
Loc: Crystal Lake, IL USA
I prefer the remove-and-replace method. Cleaning electrical messes is my favorite job. I don't avoid it, I embrace it.

Dave
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#71105 - 10/22/06 08:16 AM Re: Knob & Tube
Texas_Ranger Offline
Member
Registered: 12/17/01
Posts: 2351
Loc: Vienna, Austria
Solder and tape... I think there is a step by step manual with pictures somewhere on this board.
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#71106 - 10/22/06 11:19 AM Re: Knob & Tube
e57 Offline
Member
Registered: 05/27/03
Posts: 2837
Loc: S.F.,CA USA
Quote:
394.56 Splices and Taps.
Splices shall be soldered unless approved splicing devices are used. In-line or strain splices shall not be used.

That counts out butt splices, or Wago type connectors....

This is a little article about crimp failures in appliances , but for this type of crimp connector used in a wall, the results would be about the same = not 100% reliable, and dangerous IMO. Sure you are allowed, and in a few situations required to have irreversable connections in a few locations like in grounding, but those connections and conductors are much large, and to be done right require tons of pressure to mash the connector and wire together. I haven't seen any made well enough to trust in the wall of a home for wire sizes 14-10. Most are made for automotive and appliance purposes.

Some places/inspectors would allow you to use a wire-nut type connector. Others wont... But they too have moderate failure rates, and methods of failure (arching) that would make me think twice of using one concealed inside a wall. As it would be inaccessible behind a finish. If I use one on K&T, it'll be in a box...

But mechanical splices done right, with clean metal to metal contact, and sealed in solder, and cleaned again, have been able to last without abuse or failure for over one hundred years! The only times I have seen ones that have failed, failed for reasons: dirty conductors, poorly or unsoldered connections, left over flux, or long term over-load of the circuit.

You can find more of my opinion on the matter here: http://www.markhellerelectric.com/wusplice.pdf

Some more here: http://electrical-contractor.net/ubb/Forum1/HTML/007216.html

Do a search in the general discussion area and you'll find many more.

[This message has been edited by e57 (edited 10-22-2006).]
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#71107 - 10/22/06 12:38 PM Re: Knob & Tube
HCE727 Offline
Member
Registered: 11/11/05
Posts: 190
Loc: Delaware County, PA, USA
Thank You "E", you answered my question.
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Hank
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