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Joined: Feb 2003
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Redsy:
there is one waring about the float switch if you wired on 240 volt keep in your mind one leg will be hot all the time.
but one question i will like to know what size pump you are planning to use with this float switch ??
this kind of floating switch is not designed with mangatinc or contractor starter device [ i deal with that before it will " chatter" a little ]
if you plan to use the float switch with maganitc switch or contractor you have to use the double concat float switch [ they have this kind of verison ]
the last thing when you look at the pdf file look on bottom right you will see the 240 volt connection and you will understand why i warn you about one hot leg all the time and you might have to change the plug conferation to 240 volts or hardwired it
i am sure few other guys will chime in on this one too.
Merci. Marc
Pas de problme,il marche n'est-ce pas?"(No problem, it works doesn't it?)
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WARNING: 230V INSTALLATIONS: In a 230V pump installation, one side of the line going to the pump is always “hot”. This condition exist regardless of whether the float switch is “on” or “off”. To avoid hazards when installing or servicing, install a double-pole disconnect switch near pump installation. I do not see the problem.
Bob Badger Construction & Maintenance Electrician Massachusetts
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The float switch is a control, not a disconnecting means. This is a common configuration and should present no problems.
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Thanks guys.
I installed a double-pole disconnect at the sump location, but wasn't 100% comfortable about the submerged pump having one energized wire connected at all times.
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REdsy: As Bob said 'no problem' My 2 cents...being code compliant, and being 'comfortable' are two different animals.
With my EC hat on, I would not be comfortable. Personal preference is to have the float control a relay/contactor at 120 volts, or 24 volts.....but that's personal.
John
John
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Those are pretty standard on our "house" pumps. I have 3 in my aireator tank, controlling 2 pumps and a solenoid valve. You just have to understand it is not a disconnect.
Greg Fretwell
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The problem with the "warning" is that BOTH sides of the switch are always 'hot.' It's just that current can't flow until the switch closes.
French, many of the smaller, say 1/2 hp or less, pumps have switches that carry the full current load. These pumps do not need magnetic starters. The floats usually have some feature which results in a different level for "on" than for "off."
Please remember that, theory aside, the NEC now requires disconnecting means to open ALL 'hot' conductors. Likewise, you are required to have over-current protection on both legs of a 230 single-phase circuit.
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Please remember that, theory aside, the NEC now requires disconnecting means to open ALL 'hot' conductors. Likewise, you are required to have over-current protection on both legs of a 230 single-phase circuit. All very true but we also need to remember that the float switch is a controller and need not open all conductors. 430.81 (A) Definition.
For the definition of Controller, see Article 100.
For the purpose of this article, a controller is any switch or device that is normally used to start and stop a motor by making and breaking the motor circuit current. 430.84 Need Not Open All Conductors. The controller shall not be required to open all conductors to the motor. I do agree with John I would rather the controller break all conductors.
Bob Badger Construction & Maintenance Electrician Massachusetts
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Thanks guys.
My primary concern is that the discharge line is 2" copper, partially submerged, and in a common area. Although the pump motor is "sealed", the thought of a slight leakage concerned me.
iwire,
That is the reference I was looking for, although the definition in 430.71 seems to apply to starter-type circuits. I contacted Little Giant, and they said that this is the only control they provide and it is commonly used on 230-volt motors.
Thanks again.
[This message has been edited by Redsy (edited 10-14-2005).]
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