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#38381 - 05/21/04 05:10 PM taps and splices
DougW Offline
Member

Registered: 06/08/03
Posts: 1083
Loc: North Chicago, IL
Just got done perusing this thread:
http://electrical-contractor.net/ubb/Forum5/HTML/000540.html

And I'm wondering - we've all seen ads for the "solderless" (crimp) connectors, and the "squeeze-splice" devices for 10-22AWG.

(No, I'm not talking about the "big" T&B/Burndy taps/spices/crimps, just the "little" plastic ones.)

The only place I could think of is connecting line cords inside lighting fixtures or small appliances - and that's for the "butt" connectors.

Despite a UL listing, how many of us actually use them on 110? And where?

Just curious...

DougW

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#38382 - 05/21/04 06:08 PM Re: taps and splices
NJwirenut Offline
Member

Registered: 09/15/01
Posts: 816
Loc: Bergen County, NJ
Do you mean the standard red/blue/yellow "Stakon" type terminals?

I use lots of them when wiring control panels and similar equipment using stranded MTW type wire.

I also use them (spade lugs) when attaching stranded THHN conductors to device terminals. Even if it isn't strictly required according to UL, it makes for a neater job, IMO.

The buttsplices are occasionally useful for automotive wiring, such as replacing a stereo or tying in an alarm system. The insulation-piercing tap connectors are generally pretty lousy, though.

The most important trick to using these terminals reliably is a proper crimping tool. The only tools that work consistently well are the full-cycle ratcheting type, with a crimp die that completely encloses the terminal while crimping. The standard plier-type crimpers can either damage the plastic insulation or undercrimp the terminal.

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#38383 - 05/23/04 01:51 PM Re: taps and splices
DougW Offline
Member

Registered: 06/08/03
Posts: 1083
Loc: North Chicago, IL
Wondering (in particular) about these - "Insulation Displacement Connectors", that 3M says can be used for automotive or branch wiring. Anyone you know of ever used these in wiring a house - other than for phone/data/sound?

Sorry - URL seems to be too long to fit.

(long url removed - see below for working link)

[This message has been edited by Webmaster (edited 05-23-2004).]

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#38384 - 05/23/04 03:31 PM Re: taps and splices
Ever Ready Offline
Member

Registered: 03/27/04
Posts: 40
Loc: Scotland
Tried the link with no joy

[This message has been edited by Ever Ready (edited 05-23-2004).]

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#38385 - 05/23/04 04:03 PM Re: taps and splices
Bill Addiss Offline
Member

Registered: 10/07/00
Posts: 4196
Loc: NY, USA
Lemme try: >> Insulation Displacement Connectors



[This message has been edited by Bill Addiss (edited 05-23-2004).]

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#38386 - 05/23/04 05:17 PM Re: taps and splices
Active 1 Offline
Member

Registered: 02/22/03
Posts: 684
Loc: Grayslake IL, USA
I don't think they are all that great for cars and would not use it outside of it. They are great for under a dash when you don't have any room or slack on the wires. Just get your pliers up there and pinch it on. They are used for a lot of auto accesories for this reason. Not a good enough connection for anything that matters on a car.

I have herd some swear by them for large ballest change out jobs.

Tom

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#38387 - 05/24/04 02:32 AM Re: taps and splices
Ever Ready Offline
Member

Registered: 03/27/04
Posts: 40
Loc: Scotland
Thanks for the link Bill, I have used a lot of these in the past but only on low voltage equipment, I wouldn't like to use them on mains voltage.

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#38388 - 05/24/04 12:54 PM Re: taps and splices
DougW Offline
Member

Registered: 06/08/03
Posts: 1083
Loc: North Chicago, IL
Thanks Bill!

I've used them in cars myself, but was surprised to see the "UL Listed" for "house current" use, and suggested for branch circuit wiring.

I don't know if many of the AHJ's I've worked in would be too happy seeing those tucked into a 1900 in lieu of the traditional wire nut/pigtail combo!

Thanks to all,

Doug

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