I noted in my thread on power boards/strips
(in the small text) that my calculations said "if 1.0mm˛ flex can carry 16A under optimal conditions, then 0.75mm˛ could even do about 13A in the same scenario":
BTW, those resistance values are for tinned conductors, for bare conductors they're slightly less (0.026R and 0.0195R respectively).
- 13A through 0.75mm˛ flex - 10.5W/metre max. (2 load wires * 0.0267R/m at 20C * TCR 1.16 to 60C * 13A squared)
- 16A through 1.0mm˛ flex - 11.9W/metre max. (2 load wires * 0.02R/m at 20C * TCR 1.16 to 60C * 16A squared)
Confirmed, apparently, with this arrangement (using two heaters with currents/power indicated in the overlay); I ran it for over an hour and the cords still stayed at a tolerable temperature (not too hot to touch, nor getting overly soft). Note the pillow (from my bed) in the background, which I added for 'good measure'
. (On a side note, the IEC 60320 C13-C18 - rated for 10A, like the base version of AS/NZS 3112 - are also meant to survive testing to this current, from what I've read; and presumably the 16A C19-C24 are meant to survive 20A.)
This sure flies in the face of hyperbole from some (mainly British) sources about the 0.75mm˛ versions of C13-C17 cords being "fire hazards", at least. (The short ones, anyway. Not that I would recommend going over 10A in normal use of these - although the UL/CSA are willing to rate the C13-C18 as high as 15A with 14AWG cordage, but I don't really trust that.) Even the connectors stayed fairly cool (although it should be noted that the 10A and 15A versions of AS/NZS3112 outlets and rewireable plugs/trailing sockets seem all-but-identical anyway apart from the earth pin width, the absence of a shroud on the majority of 15A trailing sockets, and maybe the contact sizing in the outlet switches).
The cord itself, in case you're wondering, was salvaged from an el-cheapo PC speaker set (a bit of an odd choice there, given that those are more usually Class II with a type H03VVH2-F cord; the earth wire was only connected to the transformer frame, and the cord was even squashed into a cord-grip meant for a flat cord!), and measures about 125cm 'net' so is within the '2m limit' for the 'downsized' cords. The plug is the original moulded part, the socket Deta model 6338 (which clamps the cord solidly enough - far
better than the HPM versions I used in extension cords I assembled in years past). And it is
ordinary-duty (H05VV-F), not light-duty (H03VV-F) (which so far as I know, isn't allowed for any
normal extension cords here in Australia).
As an aside, I've noticed that a properly fitted (and in good condition) rewireable plug and trailing socket, mated together, seem to run almost supernaturally cool compared to most of the combinations of moulded-on versions that I've tested with the heaters (including their own plugs!). I presume that the moulded cordsets are manufactured with less stringent methods of terminating the wires to the pins/receptacles (although I'll admit that the common DIY pitfall of trapping the insulation in the terminals doesn't work out much better). (There's significant variance among them, too, so I'll probably be 'cherry-picking' from my stash of IEC 60320 cordsets to use with heavier loads - should I get any high-power appliance that has
a C14 or C18 inlet on it in the first place...)