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#212534 - 01/18/14 06:58 PM Door Switches
schenimann Offline
Member

Registered: 02/18/08
Posts: 194
Loc: Western North Carolina
I am pricing a house that has 10 jamb switches. In the past I have used the standard cooper ones in the past. The house will be all #12 which is hard to work with in these. The price on these is pretty good but is there a better option?

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#212535 - 01/18/14 09:04 PM Re: Door Switches [Re: schenimann]
gfretwell Offline

Member

Registered: 07/20/04
Posts: 9045
Loc: Estero,Fl,usa
I am not really familiar with that switch but if the walls are open, could you use a raceway wiring method for the last leg and use stranded?
When I have a box I know will be hard to stuff, stranded makes it go a lot easier.
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#212536 - 01/19/14 04:52 AM Re: Door Switches [Re: schenimann]
Tesla Offline
Member

Registered: 06/16/04
Posts: 1280
Loc: Sacramento, CA
You need more information.

That set-up doesn't sound right.

The #12 restriction is almost certainly WRT power wiring.
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#212537 - 01/19/14 04:01 PM Re: Door Switches [Re: schenimann]
WESTUPLACE Offline
Member

Registered: 03/29/04
Posts: 252
Loc: Kingwood, TX USA
If possible, set a box in the wall next to the door switch location. If in a closet, put the box facing the inside of the closet. Use a short raceway like 3/8 NM flex between the box and the door switch. You can use short #12 stranded between the box and switch. You really appreciate this setup if you ever have to replace the DS. Allows you the adjust the slack in the door switch box. Just use a blank sg cover. The problem with those switches is the wiring has to be installed before the door jam is in. They install the door jams after the drywall is installed. Make sure you make a large hole in the door frame to accommodate the door switch box. Just leave the flex hanging out the hole. After the door jam is installed, all you have to do is cut the door jam for the box and not the door frame.

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#212538 - 01/20/14 07:40 AM Re: Door Switches [Re: schenimann]
BigB Offline
Member

Registered: 03/31/04
Posts: 727
Loc: Tucson, AZ USA
Originally Posted By: schenimann
is there a better option?


Yes, we only use motion switches anymore. Mount them on the ceiling or the wall, they're time adjustable and if someone leaves the door open they won't stay on forever. Rough & trim takes 20 min, no carpenter needed.


Edited by BigB (01/20/14 07:43 AM)

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#212539 - 01/20/14 09:34 AM Re: Door Switches [Re: schenimann]
WESTUPLACE Offline
Member

Registered: 03/29/04
Posts: 252
Loc: Kingwood, TX USA
I agree with BigB, the labor saved installing motion sw will more than offset the cost difference. Door switches are a PITA to install and most go bad (They use a switch rated at 3 amps.) I have seen closets with 6 can lights 60-120 watts activated with a door switch. they last about a year.

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#212540 - 01/20/14 05:29 PM Re: Door Switches [Re: schenimann]
schenimann Offline
Member

Registered: 02/18/08
Posts: 194
Loc: Western North Carolina
I like the motion sensor idea. However I was at CED today and they had a magnetic switch. Controller wired into a box, lv wire to jamb side, second side mounted in door. Both were about a 1/4 in hole. Seems like a better setup.

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#212542 - 01/20/14 07:27 PM Re: Door Switches [Re: schenimann]
gfretwell Offline

Member

Registered: 07/20/04
Posts: 9045
Loc: Estero,Fl,usa
I would certainly want relay isolation of the load if the switch was that small and they wanted more than a 60w incandescent.
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Greg Fretwell

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#212544 - 01/20/14 08:07 PM Re: Door Switches [Re: gfretwell]
BigB Offline
Member

Registered: 03/31/04
Posts: 727
Loc: Tucson, AZ USA
These are nice also, not for clothes closets but I put one in my utility room, planning to get some for the garage as well.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E01ALN6?psc=1

You can also get them in dusk to dawn.

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#212546 - 01/20/14 11:14 PM Re: Door Switches [Re: schenimann]
gfretwell Offline

Member

Registered: 07/20/04
Posts: 9045
Loc: Estero,Fl,usa
It would be great if they would get these listed for the closet ref 410.16(C)(5)
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Greg Fretwell

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