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#19172 - 12/21/02 08:08 AM Heater fan wiribg.
Scotts Offline
Member

Registered: 01/17/02
Posts: 224
Loc: Ventura, CA, USA
I had to replace the fan on my downstairs heater. When I got the new motor it did not have a connector block so I had to hard wire it in. I currently wirenutted it and taped the nuts with electrical tape. However since there is a large amount of air flow through this area I do not want to leave it permanently like this. I unplug the unit when not is use. The connection is in the bottom part of the heater between the filter and the fan housing. Now for my question, should I put a J-box in this area and put the splice in the J-box? Or would wire connectors be better?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Scott

[This message has been edited by Scotts (edited 12-21-2002).]

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#19173 - 12/21/02 09:10 PM Re: Heater fan wiribg.
Trumpy Offline

Member

Registered: 07/05/02
Posts: 8540
Loc: SI,New Zealand
Scott,
If you are concerned about your terminations,
with respect to heat degradation, I would use High Temperature connectors, of the screw
securement type.
As long as the joints aren't in the direct heatflow, you should be OK, if they are, use
Porcelain connectors, these can withstand up to 300degreesC.
Need any more help, just ask, it's all the same price here,mate!.

[This message has been edited by Trumpy (edited 12-22-2002).]
_________________________
Let's face it, these days if you're not young, you're old - Red Green grin

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#19174 - 12/22/02 09:14 AM Re: Heater fan wiribg.
Scotts Offline
Member

Registered: 01/17/02
Posts: 224
Loc: Ventura, CA, USA
I guess I did not make my self clear. No surprise there. Presently inside the heater I have all the wires going to the fan connected with wire nuts and electrical tape over the nuts. These connections are in the flow of the cold air. What I am worried about is over time the tape drying out due to the air flow and the nuts falling off then roasting marshmellows on my house as it burns down.

I don't know it there is a code issue here, but I am asking all of you knowledgable elctrcians "How would you do it in your house?"

My thoughts, J-box inside the heater, J-box outside the heater(If the wires are lock enough) or as Trumpy suggests a terminal strip in the heater. But that would have to be in a box wouldn't it?

Scott

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#19175 - 12/22/02 12:57 PM Re: Heater fan wiribg.
RandyO Offline
Member

Registered: 09/26/02
Posts: 28
So many questions..
Is this a stand alone appliance or a heating / AC unit.

If you took apart a stand alone heater because the fan died... then NO a J-box is not required... but the question is what was in there to begin with???

by changing the fan and electrical connection you have altered the UL approval that unit had...

As for what is safe!!!

You installed a fan that had power leads coming out of the unit. If the wires COULD reach a J-box how would you secure them to the box..???

I might get a terminal block and clamp ends to the wires ....
or if there is enough space for a J-box add a recept. to the box and terminate the fan leads in a corded end.

good luck.


[This message has been edited by RandyO (edited 12-22-2002).]

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#19176 - 12/22/02 02:56 PM Re: Heater fan wiribg.
Scotts Offline
Member

Registered: 01/17/02
Posts: 224
Loc: Ventura, CA, USA
Thanks Randy,
I was trying not to be too wordy, but I guess i ass u med that you would know what I was talking about. Yes it is a stand alone heater unit. The air is drawn in from the bottom then there is a draft flume about 3' high and 2' wide The fan housing is probably 2' by 1 1/2'. The splice is in this flume so it is in the air flow of the cold air. The splice is fairly secure now, but I know over time the tape will dry out and any vibration in the unit will cause the wire nuts to come off. Obvioulsy a bad situation.

As you can see there is room to put a J-box inside the unit. I think I will take your idea and get a terminal strip and set it in a J-box and secure the J-box to the side. I think even with wire nuts inside a J-box there is still a chance for them to come with any vibtation.

In all honesty I did not think of the UL listing of the unit.
Scott

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