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#103461 - 08/09/02 05:30 AM Ground Rod Installation
Joe Tedesco Offline
Member

Registered: 10/07/00
Posts: 3325
Loc: Boston, Massachusetts USA


Using the 2002 NEC, What's wrong here?

Note: As this area is sometimes used as a reference for Vocational studies we request that comments be kept to the subject as much as possible. Thank You for your cooperation in this matter.


[This message has been edited by Joe Tedesco (edited 08-09-2002).]
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#103462 - 08/09/02 08:51 AM Re: Ground Rod Installation
Redsy Offline
Member

Registered: 03/28/01
Posts: 2138
Loc: Bucks County PA
250.53 (G)
Last sentence.
The upper end of the electrode shall be flush with or below ground level unless the aboveground end and the GEC attachment are are protected against physical damage.
BTW,
I would have the conductor on the other side of the rod, with the set screw biting into the rod itself.

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#103463 - 08/09/02 03:26 PM Re: Ground Rod Installation
HotLine1 Online   content

Member

Registered: 04/03/02
Posts: 6804
Loc: Brick, NJ USA
I believe that the "acorn" clamp is used incorrectly. As Redsy said, the method we have always used is the rod is between the setscrew and the conductor. In the manner it's installed, physical damage will be inflicted on the conductor.

Also. the rod must be flush or below grade, or protected from physical damage.

HotLine1
John
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#103464 - 08/09/02 04:25 PM Re: Ground Rod Installation
pauluk Offline
Member

Registered: 08/11/01
Posts: 7693
Loc: Norfolk, England
We use similar style clamps in England.

I agree with you -- I always put the cable on the opposite side to the set screw.

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#103465 - 08/09/02 05:16 PM Re: Ground Rod Installation
Gwz Offline
Member

Registered: 04/29/02
Posts: 199
Appears to me that the rod is cut about half-way-thru just below the acorn clamp losing circumference.

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#103466 - 08/11/02 08:13 AM Re: Ground Rod Installation
Currently Offline
Member

Registered: 04/21/02
Posts: 54
Loc: TN
That 'groove' is there so an inspector can tell if the entire rod is driven into the ground. Pulling these things out after hitting ledge or a stone is not a fun or productive thing to do. (Why does it happen at 6 1/2 feet?)

Wondering what are some techniques some of you guys use for driving them in or pulling them out?

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#103467 - 08/11/02 11:25 AM Re: Ground Rod Installation
caselec Offline
Member

Registered: 04/14/02
Posts: 557
Loc: San Jose, CA
We us a Bosch Demo Hammer with a ground rod attachment. Works great and easy on the body.
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#103468 - 08/11/02 12:28 PM Re: Ground Rod Installation
arseegee Offline
Member

Registered: 01/28/02
Posts: 321
Loc: Statesboro, GA USA
I use a rotary hammer with rod attachment. Best money I ever spent. When I have to do it by hand I use a "monster maul". It's an over sized wood splitting maul that has a 32" hollow pipe handle and a 16 pound head. Just slide handle over rod and go.

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#103469 - 08/13/02 02:06 AM Re: Ground Rod Installation
joeh20 Offline
Member

Registered: 03/21/02
Posts: 95
Loc: Tullahoma, TN, 37388
We put in 18 one day at a mobile home park we set up. Put 17 of them in with the front endloader bucket on a 40hp Kabota tractor.
Start them in a hole with a shovel and let the bucket down. One hit a rock and doubled back and came back out about two and half feet above grade. We replaced it with a new one drove with a Milwaukee demo hammer and ground rod attachment.
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#103470 - 08/13/02 06:42 PM Re: Ground Rod Installation
Bjarney Offline
Moderator

Registered: 04/10/02
Posts: 2561
Loc: West-Southern Inner-Northeast ...
I have found radically different soil conditions within ten miles...from mean hardpan to one that just about was lost in “quicksand”-like conditions. I’ll side with sparky the ¾-inch GRC is just right for ¾-inch rods. A ±3x18-inch shaft scrap can be welded to a ¾x6-inch GRC nipple, and three more nipples strung together with couplings. After reaching ~2-foot rod exposure, depending on elbow room, remove the nipples one at a time, or, reversing the driver and use the GRC attachment as a handle to limit stoop labor.

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