Submitted by e57

Yep, that's stranded around a screw!

Where this stems from is that a handful of guys in my shop, have been in the habit of doing this for years. And they'll stop doing it, when I find a violation of some sort. I'm yet to find anything..........

nevermind

[This message has been edited by sparked (edited 06-24-2004).]

I've seen some switches wired like this in my house and my house is only 10 yrs old. So it must be standard stuff. I have no idea how u would strip a wire in the middle like that.

You double the distace you were going to strip, or longer. And then don't pull it off all the way. Although there are mixed opinions if it acceptable or not. The thing I don't like about it, is if the rest of the insulation does come off, you've got loose strands hanging there.

I don't see a problem. I do this myself, as do many others around here. I don't strip off that much insulation, but the technique is the same.

Peter

This is what I think...If you dont know what you are doing when using stranded wire, DONT USE IT! Yet, what is the problem with this otherwise?

How about if it's trimmed off flush at the terminal? I do it like that, and I don't have conductors hanging out.

When I'm installing devices on stranded, I'll leave about a ¼" collar (not the inch and some shown in the photo), and I'll twist the strands counterclockwise before I form the hook. The counterclockwise twist helps to contain the strands under the terminal screw head.

AL......exactly

Sounds like there are alot of you doing this! Some people strip one inch, some a 1/4... If you don't leave some insulation on it, the strands splay out. Loosening the connection.

I just don't think this type of terminal is well designed for stranded. As the Spec grade, actually say, for use with "#14 -#10 solid or stranded" on them. Where as this type say, "#14 - #12 CU" No mention of the type of wire. They kind of leave it in the air don't they? Yet they both share the same UL file #, nothing to check there.

Fork terminals are just plain unproductive. No need to go there.

Prefferably, I pig-tail in solid. Really, I'd like to spend the extra 25 cents or so, and only use Spec Grade. Most of which have pressure terminals better designed for stranded. Like most gfi's have. That say,"#14 -#10 solid or stranded" on them.

The UL White book makes it clear that receptacles are listed for use with solid or stranded.

From the 2003 White Book

RECEPTACLES (RTDV)

Twisting the strands together well prior to forming the loop is the key. Twisting the wires counterclockwise helps lots.

As manufactured, the strands have a clockwise twist (if you imaging the wire coming out of the clock face ). Twist the strands the other way, prior to forming the loop. When the strands are twisted _clockwise_, than as the head of the screw pushes against them, the strands get pushed away from the screw shaft. When the strands are twisted _counterclockwise_, then has the screw head turns the strands get pushed toward the screw shaft.

But if the strands are well twisted together, you can terminate the wire neatly without the 'birds nest' of strands being pushed from under the screw head. The counterclockwise twist is more important with larger wire relative to the screw head size.

-Jon

1) cut the insulation with your Ideal T-Stripper (or equivalent) for the appropriate conductor size twice on the wire at the center of the "loop" left during conductor pull... just wider than the nose of a set of klein linemans pliers.

2) Use the mini-pliers on the end (or your Kliens if you're my foreman) to pull off the insulation between the cuts in the insulation

3) Loop the conductor around the appropriate terminal.

4) neatly fold conductors into box behind receptacle.

Of course, we usually used solid Cu...

iwire, I stand corrected! And, thank you.

You know, I looked and didn't see it until you posted that quote. Then looked again. Yep, it's there, must have been blind."wire-binding screw" I still don't like it... Especicially now that I must humbley appologize to all the people I've given crap about this to in the past.

I remember this subject well, as someone had to point it out to me too.

Bob

this is how i was first shown to terminate any wire (stranded) on a commercial job but 2 or 3 wraps of tape were also required as per my bosses orders. did several video chain stores this way

I have always used crimp on terminals with stranded wire. I have a pair of ratchet type crimpers that are always in my toolbelt along with a bag of terminals and wirenuts. I use crimp terminal pigtails unless it is the end of that line. Then I wrap some electrical tape and there is no worrying about whether or not my recept will short out. It provides the best insulated area coverage and is quick. It also reduces the possibility of stray strands popping out in the future.

My last two employers provided these crimpers for our commercial/industrial equipment and requires the crimp on connectors to be used.

I still don't like it... I've seen it for almost 15 years! I still don't like it...