bill...i have a ????? use a ul approved strain relief...on what? 4 conductor flat cord.

Lighthouse, The 4-conductor cords are round not flat like the 3-conductor cords. All of the cord sets come with a strain relief (clamp) but I and many others have found them to be almost useless. Most of the 2-screw cable clamps that are used for NM cable are also approved for flexible cords so that is what I use instead of the clap provided.

Curt

[This message has been edited by caselec (edited 01-08-2003).]

curt..a guess i was thinking about the old 3 cond cords.thank's ..your right about the connector.crap...good night...

I certainly think that those instructions could be made clearer, and that the first lot should mention the fact that when changing from 3-w to 4-w that the strap needs to be removed.

I think that terms such as "neutral grounding wire" will also be very confusing to the average person.

This is from a Range that is mis-wired in the same fashion as we are discussing with Dryers. Both Dryers and Ranges come from the Factory setup for 3 wire hookup with the Neutral bonded to the Frame somehow. The Manufacturer's instructions (above) are somewhat lacking in detail or clarity. The 'Warning' Lists should mention removal of the bond somehow, but they don't.



This is the same Range (new wire for other reasons) with the bonding strap removed as it should be.

Bill

[This message has been edited by Bill Addiss (edited 01-08-2003).]

Why does the range or dryer use a neutral? I mean, if you can run 240V ranges and dryers without neutral in the rest of the world: Why not in North America? It would seem the simplest way of solving the problem. Is this perhaps one of those: "But, we've always done it this way?"

C-H,

On the Dryer 240v is used for the Heating Element, but the Motor, Light is 120v. the Ranges have Lights and Clocks that operate at 120v and Heating Elements at 240v.

Bill

The light on the dryer? That must be one of those fancy features only found in America Why is the motor 120V?

Hmm,

Maybe there is no light in a Dryer. I get confused sometimes Why is the Motor 120v? I don't know. We also have Dryers that operate on 120v and use Gas for Heat. So maybe the same motors are used just for ease of manufacturing.

Bill

[This message has been edited by Bill Addiss (edited 01-08-2003).]

The dual use of the motor sound like a plausible explantion.

Regarding the 120/240v connection for an electric dryer, doesn't the timer motor require 120v. for operation as well?

Mike (mamills)

That rewire pictured above has also put proper lugs on for the wires -- Nice touch!

The barely-held strands on the first attempt looks all too familiar. I've seen similar connections on ranges here where the washers have been lost and somebody just tries to clamp the wire under the nut as best they can.

Mike,

I don't know about the Timer. I've never really dug into Appliances.

Paul,

These Lugs are also rated for connection to Aluminum wire and often used for that reason (to connect directly to existing Aluminum wiring).

Bill

[This message has been edited by Bill Addiss (edited 01-08-2003).]

C-H,

Coincidentally, we've been in need of a new Dryer and I went to pick one out tonight.
And, ... it's got a Light inside it! ..

Paul,

I found a picture of another Label that is a bit better I think, at showing what has to be done:



Bill

Some electric clothes dryers are intended to be optionally powered with 115 volts on the heating element at reduced power, via a hot-to-neutral jumper on the connection block. A nominal 5kW @ 230V element will produce 1.25kW @ 115V.




[This message has been edited by Bjarney (edited 01-08-2003).]

Any particular reason for hardwiring this? I would usually install a receptacle and cord.

EScott,

No particular reason. It's just the way it's been done for a long time in this area. Ranges, Dryers and Dishwashers have been mostly all Hardwired in the past. It's just recently that Receptacles/Cord & Plugs are coming into Fashion. This is probably due to the Fact that the people delivering Appliances now will not (or are told not to) disconnect/reconnect hardwired appliances anymore. Just this year I put in my first-ever Receptacle for a Dishwasher because of this. I don't even remember ever seeing one before.

Bill

Ah! Now that label gives a much better guide to the layman.

Ranges in the U.K. are hardwired, as are dryers over 3kW (rare in residential work). Washers/dishwashers and smaller dryers may be hardwired, but are most often fed through our standard 13A receptacle/plug combination.

www.joetedesco.com

[This message has been edited by Joe Tedesco (edited 04-09-2003).]

The Photos shown are actually of a Range with #6 stranded wiring (as it states below the first picture). I didn't have any pictures of actual Dryer wiring, so I used the Range pictures because of the similarity in hookup. Ranges and Dryer connections are very similar in appearance and need the same modifications done to accept a 4 wire cable or cord.

My new Dryer is coming tomorrow and I can take some pictures of that.

Bill

To someone in Ohio,

Log on and join in. Many of us here are not electricians and all types are welcome here. If you dont't believe me check out some of the other threads.

It don't cost you nothin' and maybe you can help us find where the Jackalope roam.

Scott

Is this clothes dryer wiring incorrect (never mind the strain-relief that isn't doing a thing)?

ThinkGood,

Connections look right for a 3 wire hookup, assuming the green wire has not been cut or disconnected inside.

Bill

Where is that green wire going to or coming from ?

If this dryer cord is for the EXISTING 3W plug and receptacle, then maybe that green wire should be attached to the Grounded Conductor terminal.

Read the installation instructions.

Is that white area metal?

This is "existing", and the white area is metal.

I thought the green wire should be going to the center screw, but this is how it was when I looked at it.

As to where the green wire is going to/coming from, I'm not sure...

[This message has been edited by ThinkGood (edited 01-12-2003).]

The green wire is the factory installed bonding jumper between the neutral and the frame. The other end of it is connected to the center screw on the terminal strip but you can't see it from the picture because its connected on the back side. If a 4-wire cord is used then this green wire needs to be disconnected from the frame screw and taped up or many instructions tell you to connect it to the center terminal with the neutral wire which connects it to itself.

Curt

Thanks, Curt!

Bill,
In your "before" picture of the range wiring with #6 conductors, it's obivous that it's bad wiring, but would this be a violation of 110.14(A) ('02 NEC) ?


That last sentence seems to imply that the stud/nut terminals on that range are not allowed to be used directly with anything larger than #10 wire.

Paul,

That's the way I'd interpret that too. I didn't think of it being a code violation specifically, just that it obviously is not a good connection. Boy, you're really getting into that Codebook over there!

Bill

[This message has been edited by Bill Addiss (edited 01-19-2003).]

Yep -- I keep dipping into it when I get a few minutes to spare!

If our interpretation of that last sentence is what was actually intended, I would have thought that it could have been made a little more explicit.

Something such as: "shall be permitted only for 10 AWG or smaller conductors" or "shall not be permitted for conductors larger than 10 AWG."

Paul,

I think in this case it would be best if it also specified solid conductors.

Bill