Pool Cover - ECN Electrical Forums

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We put a pool in our backyard last year. Or, I should
say, we had one put in. Real electricians hired for the electrical
work, etc.

It has an autmatic pool cover (motorized, push a momentary toggle
switch one direction to open, other direction to close). Finished
winterizing the pool recently, but wanted to check on one more thing
the other day, pushed "open", wouldn't go. I found that the circuit
breaker (GFCI type) tripped. I reset the breaker. If I push the
close direction, it "hums" but can't move because it's against the
stop, but open direction trips the breaker.

Leaving the breaker off :-), I did some investigation. The first
thing I did was open a junction box next to the motor, and water came
pouring out! The picture shows the junction box with cover removed.

Question: is this a violation? How are these supposed to be mounted?

Steve Wahl

[Linked Image]

It is rather hard to say that something like this is "wrong." It is also hard to know how the water got in there.
At first glance, it appears that the sparky tried to do a proper job, and the GFI did what it was intended to do.

Such boxes come with gaskets. Even when the gaskets are properly installed, water will still often find its' way in- either through another path (via the conduit, through mounting holes, etc) or by condensation.

Your experience shows that there is a problem to remedy. One solution is to drill a small (1/8" or less) "weep" hole in the bottom of the box; this will let water drain.

Other actions to consider are to dip the wire-nuts in "liquid electric tape", to inspect all other boxes for water AND corrosion, and to relocate components so that they are out of the "splash" zone.

Sorry, I failed to post the text in its entierty:

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The original electrician removed the rear plug from the box, and used
a screw with a big washer to mount the box on the wood.

Steve Wahl

Fat lot of good a weatherproof box does when someone leaves a half-inch hole in it... [Linked Image]

-John

Based on the mounting method and the fact the box is not plumb, I'd say the helper did it. :-)

Don't most of these boxes state "For raintightness, seal all openings with a sealing compound"? ½ oz of silicone along the top of the box probably would've done the trick .. I'm not a fan of the mounting method here either, thats what the small "ears" that come with the box are for....

-Randy

Well The install of the box is poor and so is the Seal tight connector not threaded in all the way.

Randy's right about the little ears that come in the package of the box. The ear get screwed into the box from the outside and then those ears get screwed to the mounting surface. I don't like the ears because I thinks they're flimsy. I drill 2 small holes and use a #12 screw through the box with silicone. I silicone the threaded KO fillers too.

I often screw though the back of the box with a self tapper as well with a bit of silicone on the screw penitration, and the installed KO blanks. That said I also drill a weep hole in the bottom of the box to let water out, because it will get in there in certain climates and as in this case, maybe even from the conduit as well over time from ground water in a small pin hole underground, or other entrance. Like a faulty gasket or even the cover plate screws. In this case it probhably was from the gapping hole in the back, but one can never be too sure when it comes to water. As it says "Came pouring out" that means the conduit(s) is full as well.

"is this a violation?"

Yes 314.15(A)

Is there an EGC in that RNC? I only see one in the LT and the pigtail to the box.

steve

Yes, it's the one that partially obscures the ground screw on the left

I tought that was the blue conductor, but now I see the blue conductor is behind the red conductor.

steve

I don't like the flimsy external ears, either, and the last time I mounted one of those using screws from the inside, I discovered that you don't have to drill the box at all.

There are two countersunk indentations inside the back wall of the box, with matching tiny conical points on the outside. A firm tap with a hammer on the point, and you get a nice, clean breakout for a #8 flathead screw. A dab of silicone before driving in the screw seals it nicely.

All you pros probably already knew that, but it was an "Aha!" moment for me.