Hi,

Just curious if there are any special tools or tricks to cutting the metallic core version of liquid tight conduit?

Thanks,
Mike

I use the cordless sawzall-or just a sharp hacksaw blade. Just hold the LT against the fence of the saw and keep even pressure. the fitting style will cover any burr with the thread in ferrule. Keep your cut straight

The last contractor I worked for had a Panasonic 15.6v saw. The saw worked really well when the blade was new. It didn't grab the metal at the end of the cut like cutting by hand does. The smell of burning/melting plastic was the only bad side effect, but it didn't last very long. Otherwise, a hacksaw with a 32 tpi blade, holding the sealtight as close and solid as possible to the cut.

If I have it out for cutting pipe anyway I like a portable band saw, fast and neat.

I do not bother getting it out for one or two cuts.

Bob

I bother to get the band saw out for 1 or 2 cuts on liquid tight. Or, I make the same helper who always wrecks my hack saw blade do it.

I just wish the made a smaller cordless band saw, that would be hip!

Or if they made better metal cutting blades for the circular saws, that don't cost $50 ea.

If I'm in a hurry, I cut the plastic jacket with a knife then bend the inner flex until it breaks, then cut the metal with my dykes. a little straightening and your ready to go.

Thanks everyone, this is just a new material for me and I was looking for any good tips and I wanted to make sure there wasn't a specific cutter like they make for BX conduit.

Mike

See the low-tech but useful “RV-1” at www.benfielddirect.com I think it will handle up to 1¼-inch liquititte flex.

Tin snips do a good job.

Especially for the smaller sizes:
Bend it until the inner coil separates and the jacket tears. Then, using Kleins' flex shears, cut the coil. If the coil has been bent slightly out-of-round, use the shears to restore the shape- or cut another link.

I use a Roto-Flex cutter a lot at my job in industry. Score the plastic jacket with a knife then turn the crank on the cutter. Clean cut, no burrs and the fitting goes on easy. They are only good for up to 1' though.

In the fine print for metal-liquidtite flex, one brand warned against cutting with an abrasive-grit “chop saw.” One of my earlier employers {two-man shop} found out firsthand what a gooey mess it made.

I work at a generation facility and worked at a chemical plant before this, that being said, I have never run across a specific tool for cutting liquid tite flex.

I have always used the "score, bend and snip" method. Just score the plastic withe a knife, then bend it til the metal flex separates, Cut it with your dykes and viola, your flex is ready to go. If you are careful about it you get a very nice end. (Note: you need to have a good pair of cutters. I have tried the Sears brands and they don't seem to do a very good job. The cutting edge is to steep.)

With a little practice you can actually cut it faster this way than with a saw. And it is easier on a ladder than a saw.

Now, mind you, this only works with the smaller sizes. Once you get over about 2" you have a very hard time bending the metal part enough for it to separate. Then a hacksaw and a vise (or other method to stabilize) is needed. I have had power saws grab the thin metal and mess it up pretty well.

And, lets face it, you get over 4" and you can't really call it "flexable" anymore anyway.