You know how Spec grade have the screw terminals that "float" loosely until wired. I have a lot of fun getting 12 gauge wire around those screws as the bob and weave like Sugar Ray Leonard. I wondered why are they made that way. All I could come up with is that if someone neglected to tighten the unused pair of terminals, it would be less likely for them to come in contact with the sides of a metal box.

That's my guess. I'd enjoy struggling with those things a little more if I understood the reasoning.

These are probably "back wired" receptacles that you are talking about. Look at them more closely. Do they have small holes next to the screws in the back? You insert the conductor(s) into the hole(s) in the back, and tighten the screw(s), which in turn tightens a pressure plate on the conductor. Side wrapping is not required.

Like CTwireman says, you are probably missing the holes, or in some cases the side compression plates intended to be used on these receptacles.

Roger

I meant that the screws themselves hang loose. On a low-cost average receptacle, if you unscrew the screw it sticks out from the side. On spec grade devices, including most 20amp- when the screws are loosened, they dangle around. If you tilt the device upwards so you can see what you're doing, the screw head drops down.

Yes, they have the ability to be back wired. 99% of the time, I use the screw terminals.

On those types of Devices, with the "Sandwiched Terminations":
With Solid # 12 Conductors, I will normally loop the Conductor around the Screw instead of using the "Back-Wire" option.
With Stranded # 12 Conductors, I will use the "Back-Wire" option.

I know these Terminations are listed for Solid and Stranded usage, it's just my personal preferences to go do the Voodoo that I do - shown above.
(humor attempt using wordage from old Movie)

I also tighten up the unused Screws on any device - to eliminate (read: Try To Reduce) possible Ground Faults, and the showers of sparks associated with said Ground Faults.
Also tape around Devices - again only a personal preference, not anything mandatory.

Scott35

When you use the screws do you turn the device upside down? Otherwise (on a spec grade device) the screw will drop down into the hole and there's no way to get the wire loop around it. Tilting it over is the only way I have figured to get the screw to lift up.

Haligan, what manufacturer and model number are you using? As stated before, these receptacles have back wiring provisions.

If you post the manufacturer and model, I'll try to post a picture of this wiring method.

Roger

and the back wiring on these receptacles is perfectly safe to use unlike the "back stab" receptacles in which you just stick the wire in and it is supposed to stay there. the difference is that the spec grade receptacles have a screw that tightens a clamp on the wire, whereas the back stap receptacles just have a spring that is supposed to hold the wire in. the back wire receptacles with a tighening screw are very convenient to use, and also safe.

Haligan

I hear what you're saying. The first time I wired a Leviton Pro-Grade receptacle, I was incredibly frustrated by the dancing screws. I've found the only ones with the toggling screws seem to be receptacles that can be backwired, as other folks have mentioned. While I do like to wrap the conductor around a screw (I have more faith in the connection), trying to wire some receptacles that way is an exercise in frustration. The back-wire seems to hold on nicely, and I've had a lot of experienced folks tell me that I'm not sacrificing anything by doing it that way, so that's how it gets done.

No stab-lock though: "A good electrician doesn't back-stab his customers."

-John

I apologize for seemingly not paying attention to the back-wire posts. It was drilled into my head by Obi Wan Kenobi Master Electrician not to do this. No doubt he was referring to the back-stab cheapos.

I am relieved to know that there is a way around the dancing screw phenomenon. I will back wire with confidence, and of course tighten all 5 terminals.

Incidentally, last night I was working a job and came across a stab lock type that I had to replace. The TEENY little release slots don't give one a lot of choices for what to stick in there to release.
I'd like to know a better alternative than my skillcraft ballpoint pen.

Cut the conductors and start over?

Get one of those cheap eyeglass repair screwdrivers. In my experience it's small enough -- and tough enough -- to do the job.

Doesn't matter if you mangle the release lever as long as you manage to disconnect the socket without mangling the wires; you're not going to reuse it anyway.

But I'd go with what Thinkgood says. Cut close to the wire entry hole and re-strip the wire properly, that way you are sure you start with a new piece of un-nicked wire. Sometimes that "blade" that holds the wire in place tends to score it a bit.

I noticed on those spec grade back wire devices that there is usually a pair of holes per screwhead. And with a duplex, you would have 4 holes on the neutral, and another 4 holes on the hots. I could connect 4 neutrals and 4 hots, and if I also put wires directly under the screwheads, a total of 6 neutrals and 6 hots. I strongly suspect that this isn't code...

Noticed on a box of Pass & Seymour receptacles that they'd only lossened one of the screws on each side.

Made install a little faster that time.

IIRC, they also offer a program (case lot minimum, I assume) that will pre-set receptacles to your specs - your choice of Yes/No to screws, joined/separate "hot" terminals, plaster ears, etc.)

You can only use the back wire spots to feed one set of conductors or you can the screw heads, not both.

2003 UL White Book

Who really wants to push a device in with 13 solid 12 AWGs on it anyway. (6 hots, 6 neutrals, 1 grd)

Haligan;


Upside down, sideways, shake it, etc.!

Some Brands are easier than others - and one even has springs with the Screw Terminals, which keeps them up kind of stoutly.

Some Brands have very tight loop points, others have easier to manage areas for looping the Conductor around the Screws.

Can't recall which Manufacturers have what, so it's pretty much a Crap Shoot!

Scott35