In general, what is the typical rating of a residential bathroom jacuzzi? 120 or 240? Amps?
As far as the NEC is concerned I would classify that as a hydromassage tub. Am I correct?

Frank

Frank
The ones I have connected have been mostly 120v with a 20 amp cord connection.

Frank,

Nice to hear from you.

As Jacuzzi is a brand name this could be confusing. If it has a heater I'd call it a Spa or Hot Tub. If it's just a Pump with jets then it's a Hydromassage tub.

I've never seen a 240v hydromassage tub. Typical ratings are 15A or 20A @ 120v

Bill

I agree with everyone else, but I would like to add that I see them above 1/2HP on a regular basis. With that in mind, they are required to be on their own circuit.

430.148, 210.23(A)(2)

Thank you. Excellent information as usual.

We allways run a 20 amp 120v circuit. We did a feew larger ones do require (2)120v circuits because they have seperate pumps and cords that draw too much for (1) 20 amp circuit. I don't remember too many with heaters but I guess that would be a circuit too.

We always put the GFI in the panel. A few places here require that so we do them all that way. Did some that the noodel was shared and the GFI protection was in the bathroom. Having to go back and put it in the panel for the inspector is a big hassel.

This area uses EMT but some towns also want a ground wire pulled from the panel. I don't do that unless I know it is required but I allways leave space in the pipe just in case. Dose anyone pull a ground wire to the tub thru EMT if it's not asked for?

I also see some companies use outdoor bell boxes, compression connectors, etc. to keep things dry. I think that is a bit much but does anyone elce do that? I will keep the box under the tub off the floor with a board but thats it.

Tom

The last few I wired I used a blank-face GFI and a toggle switch for a disconnect. (On its own circuit of course.)

Active 1 raises a good point. If the water is chlorinated, it {and its vapors} are especially good a dissolving the galvanizing on EMT and the steel underneath. My pre-retirement employer {research facility} required a copper equipment ground in all raceway runs—period. One problem with older electrical components was that ready attachment of the grounding conductor was not always available—you got good at using cutting oil and a 10-32 tap chucked in a drill motor, with the requisite star lockwasher between the enclosure and grounding-conductor attachment.

On another forum this was posted by someone that owned a Jacuzzi tub, they claimed this was what the instructions said.


Given this infomation would it be correct to feed it with a 20 amp circuit?

I wonder why it doesn't give the horsepower rating?

Better safe than sorry, especially for $.25 (max) difference between 12AWG and 14AWG for the run...

Frank,

Make sure you find out ahead of time if they are getting an optional heater.
It will require it's own 120 volt circuit.
The first time I did one, the homeowner didn't decide to buy a heater until the (new) house was drywalled.
Of course, the bathroom was on the 2nd floor, the panel in the basement.

Good to run the 12 awg to be prepared but if the unit asks for 15 amps it may be less safe to land the 12 AWG on a 20 amp breaker, it may even be a violation of 110.3(B)

Bob

I can't find anything in 680.70 (Hydromassage Bathtubs) that would require a disconnect switch within the bathroom such as a single pole wall switch. Do you agree?

Yes Frank, I agree that there is nothing in the hydromassage section, however, it is still a motor and therefore 430.102(B) still applies. The hydromassage tub motors that I see have a cord and plug assembly to serve as the disconnecting means.

The faceless GFCI and the toggle switch sounds like a good idea. As long as it's out of reach of the tub area. I would think it's not a violation, just an additional item, besides the outlet for the pump)

Assuming the GFCI has a test button, the toggle switch would be redundant wouldn't it??? I failed to mention I usually use a blank face GFCI with a single 20amp receptacle, on a dedicated circuit. I also use the cord and plug as the disconnect.

If you use use a single pole switch, doesn't it need to be HP rated? Can't use just your regular old 15a 277v switch.