I have a few question about those taps that allow you to connect to a feeder and tap off of it, (i.e. Kup-L-Tap):
Does the feeder have to be straight?
Can you get a good connection if the feeder is curled around and you are trying to tap to that feeder?
Is there installation instructions for these types of taps?

I played with a Kup-L-Tap a while ago and it looks like it would straighten out the conductor enough to work in that little piece it hooks to when you tighten it up.
This is an insulation piercing deal and I always questioned just how well they work under a high load.
It does look like it was designed to steal power tho. If I was tapping something I could turn off, I would use a more conventional tapping method.

I've came across theses before. My first instinct with them is the sharp teeth on them that cut into the copper strands. Just don't sit right with me. They my be listed but don't seem right to me.

Harold:
Although I have not seen 'directions', they must be supplied by the mfg.

Kup-L-tap has been around for quite some time.

Harold:

These are the 'instructions':

• Installs faster than any other cable tap
• Body is tough, resilient glass-filled nylon
• Factory-installed silicone lubricating compound fills voids, keeping contamination out
• Bolts and top and bottom plates are fully insulated from the conductor and contact teeth by molded nylon sleeves
• Extra hard tin-coated copper contact teeth easily penetrate most types of insulation – no cable stripping required
• Dual-rated for copper and aluminum conductors
• Can be installed on energized conductor
• Requires no cover or tape
• Runs cooler than the conductor
• Bolt tightens with just a wrench
• A horizontal line grid provides a visual guide for proper installation of conductors
Installation Instructions
1. Loosen connector bolt(s) and separate halves.
2. Mount the main cable in the main groove of the connector by placing the connector halves over the cable.
3. Insert the squared-off tap cable into the tap groove until it contacts the end tab. Tighten the bolt(s) until securely fastened.
4. Completed installation.

Note the 'horizontal line grid'

All the graphics show straight conductors.

Are you referring to a 'line tap' made in a resi panel for a solar grid tie? The line conductors being 'curved' into the MLO or MCB??

John,

Exactly what I was talking about. a resi solar job with the line tap being made inside of the panel. It is an old 20-40 panel and the service conductors do a 360 deg and land on the main breaker. The PV people clamped the Kup-l-tap onto the conductors at that point. I explained to them that it doesn't look right, but they said that they do it like that all the time. I asked for some instruction or installation paper work to back them up. I haven't seen any thing yet.

What, exactly, is the problem?

Assuming the connector appears to be completely assembled, I'd say the wires are 'straight' enough.

Otherwise, we're on a quest for the Abominable No-Man, stretching ever possible excuse to find something for objection.

For example, I bet the panel maker has some manner of boilerplate that says only wires and their breakers are allowed in the box.

We've seen folks argue that applying wire nuts to twisted wires is a violation of 'listing and labeling.' We've seen folks object to fittings with matching threads being put together, because they weren't "evaluated" together. We've even seen manufacturers contradict the testing agency decisions.

All in a quest for the almighty ability to say 'no.'

We like to sneer when someone says "we've always done it that way." Take that smirk away ... how do you think it should be done -and what is your justification?

Beria told Stalin: Show me the man and I'll find the crime. It seems to me that far too many inspectors approach things the way Beria did.

Reno:

Harold is going where I have gone a few times.

Solar grid ties via 'line side taps' in existing 'dated' panels have some interesting methods and workmanship.

Yes, your assumption IF the connector is seated properly, it should be no issue. However, there are instances where a failure resulted from the teeth cutting the Al strands from the radius of the bend.

The 'almighty ability to say no'?? When I have to, you bet.

Harold:

IF you have one of the smaller Kupl-taps, it may be OK.

Think this way, ask the contractor for an identical KT, look at the run teeth spacing & look at the radius of the conductors, then make your call.

Some of the solar guys leave a lot to be desired.

Reno,

Believe me when I say this, I am not one of those inspectors who like to look for something to fail a contractor on each job. Just the opposite. I want that EC to pass each job, for one thing, I have to go back if I fail him. I don't need to justify my job, I just want the job to be safe. I didn't like it when the AHJ came on my job and tell me how to do it. I also will talk with any EC (If he fails) about easy ways to correct the mistake. Most times it is just an easy mistake, like they missed a receptacle on a wall ( new construction) that was required by code. I also will let him continue the job and it will be there on the final inspection. I have know which EC's I trust with that task.

John,

The main service panel was 200 amp with 4/0 wire and a tap of #6 copper. The conductor looked like @ (The Copy right insignia?) (or the AT sign)when he tapped it in mid stream.
I was just wondering if I can find a diagram or installation instruction somewhere. I also asked the PV people to provide that for me. If it shows that it can be done like that, I don't have a problem with it.

I thought they usually ran the solar into the panels with a back fed breaker.
I guess I really need to go read up on 690.

Harold:

The info I posted here is from the Kupl-tap website. The graphics on the site only show STRAIGHT run/tap conductors. There was NO mention of installation on curved.

Please refer to the email I sent you.

Greg:

To comply with 690/705 some installs cannot use a backfed CB, and utilize a line side tap before the main OCP.

I guess I was confused by 705.12(D)



You really have more experience with this than me. I have never seen one that didn't just connect to a breaker plugged into the bottom of the bus with a clip. For living in the "sunshine state" we really do not have that much solar PV.

Greg:
705-12 (D)(6) permits the backfed CB from requiring a clip.

I guess I am just asking how you can make a tap to the conductor without the "dedicated breaker".

'Line side tap' on load side of the utility meter.

I see that now. I am still curious why anyone would.

Just when I thought this was starting to make sense to me too

Greg:
Read further.....120/125% of buss rating defeats the backfed CB on some solar installs.

OK Got ya.
Like I said, we don't have that much solar PV around here.
I do remember the 125% thing when I was looking at PV but I have a 200a rated panel with a 150 in it so it was not an issue at the time.

Ironic that the "Sunshine State" is lite on solar??

The government subsidies dried up

We average 2-3 solar permit apps a week.

The commercial jobs have almost died. I have one (1) in the last 9 months.

What is the subsidy there?

Florida just put a few bucks in the subsidy pot in January and it was gone in less than 2 hours.

Greg:
Sorry to say, I have no clue. We just inspect.

I've seen some line side connections for Solar PV in residential 100 & 200 amp service panels ahead of the Main on the SE conductors. IMO it is sloppy and dangerous.
Typically you only have a short section of SE wiring that connects to the Main. Now you add additional un-fused SE conductors to that panel that workers/homeowners must be careful of. It would be safer to add a J-box between the meter and the main to splice the SE cable.

Now under the new rule 705.31 in 2014 you can run those un-fused SE conductors up to 10 feet in the building...which conflicts with 230.70(A)(1) which was to limit the length of un-fused SE conductors inside a building.

I think something should be written to prohibit those Line Side Connections inside a Panel...at least in the homeowner environment.

705.31 should be removed...IMO

I agree. I was surprised when John pointed it out to me. I thought we were trying to get away from excessive amounts of SE inside the house.
I smell solar contractors getting a short cut in the code to make their bids less. I guess I have to go look at the ROP and see where this came from.

Guys:
I agree with you on the 'unprotected' tap from the service conductors to the solar AC disconnect, being a possible safety issue for those unfamiliar with solar grid tie.

Hence the 'both line & load sides of this disco may be HOT'

As to length, my inspector and I use the 'same' as service conductors practice. We are still '11 NEC.

FYI, I am not a 'lover' of the line tap; however I have to accept it IF it is compliant.

I understand that if it is code, we are stuck with it but the breaker on the load end of this solar tap is still a service disconnect. If this wire starts getting very long, you have to ask if the disconnects are grouped.

Some AHJ's don't consider it a "Service Disconnect"...they consider it a "PV Disconnect" and therefore grouping is not required.

Placards denoting each other would be installed at both locations of equipment if not grouped.

I disagree and prefer grouping like you.