How many of you install a disconnect for a drop in range or a wall mounted oven? And if you are an inspector, do you require a disconnect for the above appliances?

Thanks for your comments.

You need some kind of disconnect IMHO. Usually it is just a plug that is accessible behind a drawer or in a cabinet.

Usually the drop in range and the wall mounted oven are hard wired. and according to 422(31)(B) if the appliance is more than 300VA then the OCPD be within site or be locking type or the appliance have a local disconnect.

Either a receptacle for the appliance, or a breaker lock-off; non-removable.

Two choices.

Usually, if there's an OFF/Clear button on the touch pad, the inspector's around here will let it go, even though I don't think this really complies with 422.34.
The breaker lock-off sounds like the best option, but most likely will never even get used.

I was reading the code and came across this code section. and i thought that I have never been cited for not having a disconnect within site for hardwired appliances.
And i wondered what you guys do? turn down the final for not having a disconnect?

Thanks.

I would not consider any button on a touch pad to be a disconnect, no matter what the they decided to label it.
The power is still going to the control board inside the appliance. These things usually have a solid state relay controlling the power and that can easily leak enough current to kill you without ever exhibiting any kind of fault to the user.
I really like a real disconnect device on the wall or a plug so you can pull the cooking appliance without any power in the pigtail or anywhere inside. In these kinds of things, a fault in the pigtail or connector is as dangerous as anything else. You certainly do not want to be holding that oven when the loose wire energizes the case. If you are lucky it just shorts, pops, trips the breaker and you drop the oven on your foot.

BTW this disconnect thing seems to be far from as universal as I thought it was. Here in Florida, inspectors are very particular about disconnects and even the working space around SOME of them. (a difference I have been hard pressed to define).
In Md, not so much.
https://www.electrical-contractor.n.../187659/Maryland_HVAC_Install#Post187659

Niko:
I have written quite a few red stickers for non-conformance; as I said above...two choices, receptacle or breaker lock-out.

A few guys can't seem to understand that the CB lock-out is NOT the clip type to prevent inadvertent shut down of select circuits. Nor is it a LOTO device, it has to remain on the CB, not removable. A recent final on a McMansion took three (3) trys 'till the right item was installed.

I have never heard of anything more than a plug/cord connection as being the required means for disconnecting any appliance. I can see the value in having a breaker handle lock on a hardwired oven or cook top (though I still disagree). There comes a point in time where the NEC cannot protect the stupid from their own stupidity.

In a typical home, if the husband (or wife) is making a repair to a cook top, wouldn't it be safe to assume that everyone in the house is probably aware? How much of a risk is there that the husband gets electrocuted because the wife haphazardly goes and turns on the breaker? (Well, in my house, I could see that happening intentionally but that is another subject).

While I'm having an Andy Rooney moment, how come shared neutral/grounds, hard-wired ranges and dryers, along with no disconnects have been perfectly acceptable for decades, then ten years ago they suddenly became dangerous?

The range in my house is now on a 4-wire circuit, but only because it is connected to a generator sub-panel. It was originally on a 6/3 AL SEU cable. My dryer is still on 8/3 AL SEU since the house was built in 1992. Me thinks that someone out there is getting a bit too carried away with potential risks. Are there really any documented cases of injury or death being caused by the lack of these recent requirements that exceed those of other electrical injuries? Nope.

I know, I know......Lead paint, driving without seat belts, smoking, riding bikes without helmets, asbestos, etc. weren't discovered until the damage was done, but come on.

Sounds like manufacturers of 4-wire cords, receptacles, disconnects and handle locks are constantly busy at work in changing the code (A.K.A: Reinventing the wheel).

Personally, I feel that the 4-wire requirement is actually making things more dangerous, since DIY's and appliance delivery boys aren't making sure to keep the neutral and ground separate. In my travels, I often find (even in new homes) that the bonding strap has been left in-place or removed in the incorrect scenarios.

Ed:
If it is written, it is enforced. I have no stock in any electrical equipment mfg co, I am not the inventor of the bubble cover, "Kenny Clamp", TR devices, AFCI breakers, etc.

I understand your feelings. Remember cars without seatbelts, air bags, metal dashboards, radios with metal knobs, car seats that were basically hollow tube frame with vinyl seat, back and no harness?

As to the competance of anyone to de-energize a circuit, and not to turn on anything they did not turn off...that is beyond my job titles

Usually no problem installing a receptacle for the oven if it's mounted on the floor, but if it's mounted in a cabinet the breaker is the disconnect. I have never put the breaker-lock on and have fortunately never failed for it.

Hey John I finally got my license number issued. It's NJ 16557 and business name is Classic Electric. Hope to see you out there soon.

Ed I really think the elimination of the exception for ranges and dryers was only to make the code more consistent. If you can accept the logic of a 3 wire dryer cord it is hard to explain why connecting the ground pin of a NEMA 5-15 to the neutral is wrong.
Phil Simmonds said "the war is over" it was time to bring the code into compliance with 250.6.

IMO.,,

Either plug or a A/C pullout device will work for cooktop even wallovens it will be much safer than try to run all the way down and kill that breaker and LOTO it.

I can go one of few ways to meet the modern codes.

In France must have a disconnect switch right next to the cooker unit { range }

Merci,Marc

Over here with a range (free-standing sort) you are required to have a 32 Amp isolator, mounted on the wall to one side of the appliance (ie: cannot be directly above the appliance, for safety reasons).
And you have to have a 4 pin socket behind the range, to connect the 32Amp flex/plug into.

Any means of locking the circuit out would be at the panel end (ie: a circuit breaker lock-dog, padlock and lock-out tag).

However, with the electric cooktop/ wall oven combo's that are becoming ever more common over here, you would need a 20A circuit for the cooktop and a 25A circuit for the wall-oven.
2 isolators and 2 circuit breakers, often the subcircuit cables (after the isolators) are wired directly into the terminals of the appliances.

The code specifically says you can have a disconnect behind a drawer for a "range". Most AHJs extend that to ovens and cooktops. Installers put the receptacle in the cabinet.