I've come across this recently and I think it's really a great idea! One of those that I wish I had thought of.

A "Stepladder in your pocket and more"
Take a look:

The PocketLadr

Bill

hmmmmm,
one wonders were the 'do not stand on top step' sticker would go....

Looks like a great idea to me. Has OSHA seen this!

Looks like a good idea, but I don't think it will every get an OSHA Approved sticker!

It looks like they got the idea from the old telephone poles, where the climber had to wear a safety strap.

OSHA office in Denver advised us "they don't approve tool design... just their use." This one doesn't fall into the ladder or stilt category, so we addressed use with following warnings printed on the tool:

Use on vertical wood 2X studs only

Use no higher than 24 inches above floor height

Maximum weight 300 lbs

OSHA allows stilts up to 40 inches tall. Guess one could argue whether it's a ladder or a step. It's a lot more stable than a short stepladder!! It's great when you need a quick step up for a quick job!

A few years ago (more that 5) most of my supply houses had an identical item except it was silver. They were not stocked very long before being pulled from the shelves for safety reasons. I'm not sure if this was a result of the manufacture, OSHA or CAL OSHA. Since the web site says patent pending I would guess this is a new manufacture trying the same thing again.

Curt

Bill:
I don't think that this would be on my list.
OSHA would probably have my head.

What's on my "wish list" right now is replacement tools and equipment that was ripped out of one of our vans Thanksgiving morning.

Maybe a real nasty pit bull or rottie???

Hey, just kidding...I'm not a "watch dog" believer.

John

John
Doesn't that make you wonder why they don't prosecute thieves and burglars more severely. You work hard to provide and then some sorry lazy thief steals your tools so he can pawn them for a fix cause he's hooked on dope. Then he gets probation so he can go steal some moore.

I know thats why we have insurance but it still burns my @$$.

Has anyone ever seen 1-cent of restitution that is supposed be paid by these thieves when they get probation?

I'm all for the dog, maybe the thief will get something ripped instead of our tools.

Yea, something like a cross between a pit bull and a Buick!
TW

For 10 years I have been using a Greenlee SlugBuster ratchet set-1/2"-2". Occasionally I have borrowed a friend's hydraulic Greenlee pump and drawstud. Tuesday I bought my own Greenlee QuickDraw unit and drawstud set. I use the slug splitters from my ratchet set. Punched 40 3/4" and 20 2" KOs yesterday in about 45 minutes. The kit, without any slugbusters, was a little over $600.00! Told my wife it was the most expensive Christmas gift I have ever bought her. She sat out in the shop last evening punching several holes in an old meterbase enclosure. Her only gripe was that I didn't buy one 10 years ago when she was working with me every day. I should have. Next on my list? Rotozip. I've used a plumber friend's on a couple of remodels we did together and they are awsome for cutting in old work boxes in either sheetrock or plaster and lath.

Fred,

I agree about the Rotozip, a very handy tool, although not quite as easy to control as I would like. I've seen different styles of this and some may be better than others, I don't know. First one I ever used I had borrowed from a Cabinet Guy that was small like a palm sander, but couldn't find it in the stores.

One thing I found out is that it is definitele important to get the right bits. Some are made only for wallboard (sheetrock) and only make wood smoke. (had me wondering for awhile what was going on.)

Bill

[This message has been edited by Bill Addiss (edited 12-06-2002).]

Another vote for the Rotozip. Excellent point about the bits. Carbide tip is good for plaster, tile etc. Hold on tight!

We just got rotozips. I had never used one and thought it was just fine for the guys to use a fine tooth sawsall. Then I hired a leadman who said he really wanted one on his truck. I bought one and tried it on a cabinet, I couldn't believe how great it cut without splintering. Yes, it can get away from you, so you have to be carefull, but I won't have a truck without one now.

concerning the roto-zips, is there a particular drill blasde of choice??

Among other things, they are great for cutting holes in ceiling tiles for recessed lights using the circle cutting attachment.

We did a few jewelery stores that had a lot of recessed lights. Didn't find anything that worked better with less mess.

Placed the tile face up over a trash can and cut. NO MESS and FAST!

Sparky,

I don't know much about all the different types of blades but have learned enough to read the package next time before buying them.


Bill

Cutting holes in ceiling tile for cans. My wife bought me a Lennox Grit holesaw for 6" cans for Valentine's Day about 6 years ago. It works great on tile and sheet rock. You can cut tile all day with it chucked in a 14.4V cordless. 4 years ago when we did a satellite campus for IU we had about 70 6" cans to cut in 2x2 tile. The guys doing the grid ceiling set up a jig in a drill press with my can holesaw and punched them out as they went. A carpenter friend of mine has a cordless Rotozip. Now that's the one I want! I haven't seen one in the Toolcrib catalog yet. I didn't have a chance to ask where he got it.

<threadjack>
I've never tried a rotozip, but my dremel with the plunge attatchment and zip bits I would think would work on the same physical principal.

I think (I really could be wrong, so please feel free to correct me) that the culprit, and trick, to controlling these tools is a strange thing called Gyroscopic Precession .

A force applied to a rotating body will cause a reaction at 90º to the angle of the force.

(I think I got that right)

What this means, is to gain better control of the rototool, apply "up" to go left, "left" to go down "down" to go right and "right" to go up. (Or it could be counter-clockwise), lightly guiding it with just enough pressure to keep it moving, and not really fighting it.

I swear this works for me, could be a figment of my imagination though.

</threadjack>

[This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 12-06-2002).]

Just got one of the Black and Decker laser level/stud finder. Right now its on loan to a friend, he said it found studs his other finder missed. The laser is self leveling, just hang it on a finish nail at the correct height and turn it on. Should work out great for all the countertop receptacles. Got mine for $70 at Big Blue.

I also had the carbide edge hole saw for recessed lights. Worked great in plaster except for the dust, until the carpenter borrowed (stole) it.

OSHA has approved the "PocketLadr" as a "stationary scaffold." As long as it's used within those guidelines, i.e., 60" or less above floor/ground height, they consider it safe. The Englewood, Colo, Denver Regional and National Offices were all involved in the evaluation. Mike Lackey, President, PocketLadr LLC
http://www.pocketladr.com

I have the Dewalt RotoZip tool. I can not reccomend it to anyone else. The chuck is tightened by holding two plastic buttons, a very poor design. The bit will slip in the chuck, stop turning, turn blue from the friction and break off. Of course, you can't see that it is happening because the bit is in the wall. It cost me an extra trip to Big Orange to buy a second package of bits to figure out what was happening. I now carry a wrench with the tool to make sure the chuck is tight.

I would like to have a Bio Tek Iso tester,
but the heavy price tag for this glorified GFI tester means I wont have one. I'll find something else, it is Christmas.

That's a joke, I don't want to loose the real meaning of the season, and the name is Christ.

Roger

[This message has been edited by Roger (edited 12-18-2002).]

One, two, three, four I do not want to start a flame war.

I have too disagree with the term of OSHA approved in the earlier post. Here is a excerpt from an OSHA letter of interpretation.

OSHA is generally precluded from approving or endorsing products. Also, the variable working conditions at job sites and possible alterations or misapplication of an otherwise safe product could create a hazardous condition beyond the control of the manufacturer. However, where appropriate, we try to give some guidance to help employers assess whether products are appropriate to use in light of OSHA requirements.

OSHA does not "approve" products. They may say that when used properly a product is possible to meet their regulations. But that does not mean it is "OSHA Approved"

If you have a letter from OSHA then please attach it or e-mail it to me.
Scott

Mistakenly tried to make a short response to earlier postings that referred to OSHA. "Approved" has to much meaning to some folks, so let me reword it: My point was that OSHA has seen them and sees no problem from a safety standpoint. They feel this is a safely designed tool and used within their stationary scaffold guidelines, is safe. I am familiar with the fact they don't "approve" the design of any tool or hardware.

So are you going to change your website and change the "OSHA Approved" line?
Scott

It was changed yesterday before you posted this.

Our wording on the website was not intended to be inaccurate or misleading, only brief. If you can think of 2 words to say it better, let us know.

By the way, our contacts who gave the PocketLadr high praises were: CO OSHA, Dan Holland, 800-669-5771, Ext 129, and Denver Regional OSHA office, Dave Herstedt, 303-844-1600

Mike,
Cool. I did not want to pick on you. It is just one of my pet peeves when people say that their product is "OSHA approved".

BTW I was asked if we could tell our customers that our ball vales are OSHA approved, our competitors are. I told 'em that they could say that our valves can help the customers comply with the lockout regulation.
Scott

Scott - I understand. I've even been asked if they are UL approved?! That would be like getting UL approval on a hammer... you think?
Mike