Does anybody here know of a standard 6 wire twist lock. My application is an outlet box on the end of a cord reel on a fire truck.

The cord is a 10/6 SOW and in the outlet box there is a 30 amp 240 volt twistlock, a 15 and 120 volt twistlock, and two regular 5-15's. There are 3 circuits going to the box, two hots an a common ground for the 240 twistlock, hot, neutral, and common ground to the 15 amp twistlock, and one last hot for the 2 5-15's (they will use the neutral from the other 15 amp circuit as a multi-wire)

We want to have a twist lock so we can disconnect the outlet box when bringing in the cord reel.

The best I would find was an L22-30 but that was only five wires.

Any ideas?

Thanks, Jim

Maybe a round "cannon" plug Now AMP/Tyco
Look at the CPC line

I was looking into the AMP mil-spec round connectors, just trying to figure out which one to get to have 6 #10, the closest I could find was a 7 pin for #8.

It does look like you will have a spare

Check out the following link for Meltric Corp they make a very good product. I’ve used many have a few with 24+ contacts.

Meltric

Thank you for the link to Meltric, I looked online and requested a catalog, they seem to have a good product, just need to figure out how to write them into the spec.

Meltric has great tech support I’m sure if you give them a call they can help. Lots of choices on how to assemble the devices I find it best to call for peace of mind.

mil-spec round would be perfect for this application, as they're designed specifically for rugged used like this. Military has gone pretty much completely crimp now.

Note that when ordering military connectors, the backshells and pins are ordered separately. I don't believe there are any #10 pins, and #8 are only in a limited # of styles. I believe #8 crimp pins will #10 cable, though I'd have to pull the specs to verify.

Gonna cost you $$$ for mil-spec, though. Uncle's got deep pockets.

Another option would to be having two plugs-one for the 240V 30 amp and the other for the 120V, Raychem (amongst others) make "Y" heatshrink boots for splitting cables. This method will be easier as it will allow the use of standard plugs for the services rather than specialised connectors. Problem is the strain on the "Y" junction due to strain may cause more grief than good.

I had a look in Australia for you, I found an IP66 rated connector which had 7 pins but only good for 20 amps.

This has become a lost art but if you do go with the "Y" configuration, "lacing" the cable (tied up with wax impregnated lacing cord) before you shrink wrap it will make it last forever. We had cables like this in the olden days that were just laced and wrapped with cloth tape and they did well for decades.

Have you checked to see what the manufacturer's recommendations are for connecting the box, or seen any similarly equipped fire trucks ?

I am not sure about the y option, we need to make this idiot resistant. I will try giving Meltric a call one day this week to make sure I get the right part.

What about some kind of "pin and sleeve" type receptacle and cord cap arrangement that Hubbell, Leviton and crouse hinds make?

A.D

If you want "idiot resistant"*, one trick to writing a spec on the Meltric products is that Meltric is the only mfr who's plugs and connectors are UL listed as disconnect devices. All others, including the MIL spec "Cannon" plugs, need to have the power disconnected PRIOR to un-doing the connection.


*There is no such thing as idiot proof, they just make better idiots!

MIL-SPEC aren't UL listed, but that's almost a technicality- they're subject to a far more thorough battery of tests. Using a plug as a disconnect for servicible equipment is standard, as in military applications, you can't always spend time looking for the breaker.

NEC doesn't require UL listing, though, just that that components be "listed"... and then cops out and leaves the definition of "listed" to be whatever the AHJ wants it to be.

I have a couple questions? As a fellow nozzle nut why so many circuits for the fire truck? is this a shore line set up? or is it from the onboard genny to a piece of equip?

I made an interlock for our shore line to keep our dewalt batteries charged when plugged in and it switches over to generator power when the truck is being used on scene.

really simple cost about $80


Thanks,

Denny

This is for our outlet box on a cord reel fed from the generator. We have a dedicated 30 amp 240 v for the electric fan, and two 20 amp 120 v for flood lights.

I have to look into how our battery chargers are wired, they charge off the shore line but they also charge when the generator is running. I assume there is some backfeeding going on, which I don't think is a big problem unless the auto-eject fails and the generator is running when you start the truck.