Installed 2 metal halide 100 watt floodlights. You could use to wire with 220V or 110V. Pretty sure I wired right for 110 volt and had to install my own electric eyes.
Well one works fine. The other worked fine one day then would stay ON all the time. Must be a bad photcell so replaced.
But same thing. Customer saids worked one or 2 daysday then stays on.
Thanks for Any suggestions

Are you sure the start current isn't welding the contacts together?
Photocells don't tend to like switching inductive loads.

Some of the sensors are "smart" in that you can do a secret handshake of quickly switching the power off and back on to have them stay on all the time. Thus, every time the power blinks, the lights will come on and not go out until you turn them off for a minute. Might this be the case with yours?

Make sure the photocell current rating is above the fixture current rating at the voltage you connected!. Photocells are used all the time to turn on inductive loads. Ballast's and starters.
The one in my yard (POCOS) has been working just fine for 10 years, including bulb life. Lucky I guess.

There should be a plate that slides over the eye itself. (not all models). Adjust for correct darkness, see(instructions) and make sure it is pointed in the right direction.
If there is other lighting in the area, it could be keeping your light on. Or if the eye is pointed to a dark spot, like the pole that could also keep it on.

Make sure your photocell is rated for ballasted lights, the ballasted rating is about 1/2 of the tungsten or incandesent rating. I believe whatever cell you are using does not have rating for metal halide.

Get a Tork photocell and put it on your lights. I have installed numerous HID lights with these photocells and have not had any problems. They are a bit more expensive than some others, but you get what you pay for.

I'd check your wiring and ballast draw if you've blown 2 cells in a row. Something is welding those contacts in the cell.

If this cell is a "button" type, I'd suggest using an 1800W cell, at least, for a ballasted load. They're about the same price as the 300W, and give you some extra headroom. Intermatics rarely give me problems, but I'm going to take twisters advice and take a look at the Tork products, although I've not yet installed those.

Good Luck!

Check your loading !
Very likely that you weld the contacts together.
A streetlight has a very inductive load.

We only fit a photocell on a single light. Any more lights are controlled via contactors.

Cheers, Raymond