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#22175 02/19/03 10:55 PM
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 132
E
Member
I have a question that I thought you guys could help me with. I am currently doing a luxo condo in which the owner has specified all receptacles in visible areas to be installed in the baseboards. I am aware that code states that there be be no set back when combustible materials are involved. Has anyone done a job with these specifications and how did you overcome the "no tolerance" rule?? I know they make an item called "goof rings" but I understand that the inspector may not accept these in new construction. I have demising walls with firring, double drywall and 3/4 " baseboards. Some boxes can be set back quite far. I would love to hear what you guys would think would be the most effecient and workmanlike manner. I am a commercial electrician that has been asked to do this 3000 sq foot condo. I find myself pouring through codebook for residential code definitions as I haven't dealt with this since apprenticeship 10+ years ago. Thanks.

#22176 02/19/03 11:32 PM
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 558
G
Member
We did a job similar to this a few years ago in NC.The wall finish was 3/4 tongue and groove pine with 3/4 furring strips fastened to the studs behind it. The baseboard was 5 1/2" tall. With the ahj's blessing we left a loop of wire in the wall for the receps,And spray painted the locations on the floor.I,as did the builder took measurements as to the locations of the receps.He had his carpenters to cut out for the boxes.We used a deep metal raco box with ears.The boxes were not installed till trim-out time.It required a lot of coordination/communication but it worked real slick.I don't know if it'll work for you but it might be an option. Russell

#22177 02/19/03 11:35 PM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 558
C
Member
If this is new construction I would use the Carlon adjustable boxes. They are available in single and 2-gang and adjust from 0-2". We use them anyplace we are not sure what the final finish material thickness will be such as in tile, cabinet backs, baseboards, paneling, etc. We adjust the box depth to approximately what we think it should be then when we set the device make the final adjustments. They cost more than regular single gang boxes but about the same as if you were to include the goof ring needed with the regular single gang box.

Curt


Curt Swartz
#22178 02/20/03 12:31 AM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 939
F
Member
caselec:

yes i did use the carson adjustable box also the most common place i use is in the kitchen and bathroom that the room alway very unpreditable and what i do is keep my coummation with the client so i know what i can deal with it so i can slect the porper devices and boxes .

unfortetly about the goof ring i dont use it not too often but it work ok to me as long the inspeceter say ok as long it can cover the holes or blimish so look very nice when i get it done

merci marc


Pas de problme,il marche n'est-ce pas?"(No problem, it works doesn't it?)

#22179 02/20/03 07:53 AM
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 131
T
Member
Have the carpenter cut the baseboard to fit an old work box. Just leave loops of wire out of the bottom of the drywall where the OWB whould be. Don't cut the moulding yourself you will be liable for your mistakes.

#22180 02/21/03 08:39 AM
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,294
Member
There's now a "goof ring" that's UL listed.
They're made by Arlington; for 1 gang, 2 gang, and round/octogonal boxes, they're part # BE1, BE2, and BE1R, respectively.
These are the first listed box extenders that I've seen. www.aifittings.com


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