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Joined: May 2002
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How much do you add onto your true tape footages for wire orders.
Lets say your pull'n 600's and you got 7 90's (with box in between of course). Do you add 5feet for each nintey and then 10' onto the total footage. whats your method?
One time on the job we were pull'n 600's from basement to roof and the guy on the roof feeding the wire said is it there yet? and the guy at the switchgear said on the radio, no, is it supposed to be???? ( which is was of course) The guy on roof looked like he sh*t his pants.
[This message has been edited by Webmaster (edited 07-06-2002).]
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Joined: Dec 2001
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E, On "big" wire pulls, I always pull in a "measuring" tape (I think Greenlee makes them). I add some for "make up", I also add some for making a "pulling head". Every pull is different. If you have a large switchgear that you are pulling into, the "make up" (or termination, whatever you want to call it) will be more. To me the most important thing is pulling a string or measuring tape into the run of conduit. That way mistakes are less likely to happen.
Wired, Doc
The Watt Doctor Altura Cogen Channelview, TX
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I do the same thing Doc does. (Yes Doc the norm is greenlee) When your talking this size wire 6'too moch is better than 6" too short. But, remember 6'* 4= 24' at somewhere in the nieghborhood of $2.50 - $3.00 a foot, is some noticeable wasted money. Imagine this if you were on a job with 20 - 40 of these runs. Of course you have to build some waste into your bid. But once again, 24' of waste on a one time pull is probably more cost effective than what you described. Roger
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I believe Greenlee 435 tape used to have a fairly good "fudge factors" printed on one of the reel faces. They might still be there. A phone call may pay off… http://www.greenlee.textron.com/support/index.html Short pulls can surely spoil a Monday.
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I measure off the length of the pull as acurately as possible. I don't add for sweeps. I add the actual length for rise and drops. Then add for your desired tails or waste needed at each end, ( usually 5-10 ft.). If I am unable to get an exact measurement I will add a little more to be safe.....just depends on how I feel about it. I usually don't take the time to push in a fishtape and measure it.....allthough I agree this is the most acurate way. I haven't been short on a big pull.....yet. I have, however, had times where I expected 10' of drop-off and ended up with less than 1'. GJ
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The Greenlee measuring tape is invaluable for minimizing waste. The instructions are: 1. Measure the distance from terminal to terminal. 2. Add 12" for each 90 deg. worth of bend. 3. For each pull box, j-box, or cabinet, add an additional (2 x box depth).
(If you are as wacky as I am, add a little more for peace of mind.)
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Redsy—I couldn't find that online at their site...would be a handy addition if it's not already there. Only once {fortunately not on my job} have I seen "a sleeve job" on a 1200-foot 4x750-kcmil run. I imagine the compression/heatshrink splices shoehorned a few feet into the duct are fine to his day.
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Joined: Mar 2001
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Bjarney,
Go to the Greenlee site (Product info, then Pulling & Fishing) It's on page 12.
[This message has been edited by Redsy (edited 07-09-2002).]
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The formula is also written on the endcap of the reel. Rojosy's right, add some for "insurance"
[This message has been edited by electure (edited 07-09-2002).]
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