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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 17
C
Member
Hi everybody, I have a question. I have called ANSUL SYSTEM manufactures for info on becoming certified on there systems since I have an opportunity to do some work for a contractor,I have contacted Ansul and they referred me to there regional sales rep. somewhere in the Carolinas, but the individual never calls me, I called the sales manager at Ansul and she said she would talk to him and so far it`s being 4 months and not one peep out of them.So if any body has info on how to become certified please e-mail me.
Thanks for your time.

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 421
Member
why do you need to be certified ?
The Ansul "tech" merely hangs his bottle cabinet which contains two microswitches that you use to hook up the FA and the other is for whatever you use to shut everything else off with.....latching relays, contactors, starters, or shunt trips.

The last big one I did was at a Cheescake Factory, using their rather vague prints, which included a PITA "housekeeping " key switch...... but it was up to the EC to figure out the details and they were not "certified" by Ansul


Tom
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 19
F
Member
Why do you need to be certified by Ansul? Are you going to install/service Ansul fire suppression systems? Ansul will not share their information with anyone who is not an Ansul Distributor. To be an Ansul Distributor you will need to agree to buy $150,000 per year, each year. Or at least that was the figure last time they asked me to be a distributor. I declined. There are friendlier suppression companies out there. Amerex and Badger come to mind. If you just need the information to wire gas valves , fire alarms, or make-up air shut downs, just ask the suppression system tech for the info. I am only too happy to find an electrician who will perform the wiring to code. Part of the code does forbid electrical connections in the suppression system control box. So happy that often I will recommend that electrician to my other customers. If you are interested in changing careers e-mail me off list, I will send you contact info for Amerex and Badger. After all, the work is really easy, "The Ansul "tech" merely hangs his bottle cabinet". The whole job only takes 10 or 15 minutes.Easy money, any "tech" can do it.
fireman@eoni.com

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 693
L
Member
Only 15 minutes??? You don't do what my fire-suppression system customers do.

What about the lead links in the hood and the pull stations by the doors, along with the EMT and those little pulley elbows that you have to string the steel wires through?

What about the supressor nozzles that have to be piped into the hood over the cooktop?


Larry Fine
Fine Electric Co.
fineelectricco.com
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 693
L
Member
Just an aside: For anyone who needs it, I came up with a way to interconnect the intake and exhaust fans to the control box using only 3 wires.

There are two advantages: (1) freeing up the second micro-switch for use with shunt-trips or other purposes; (2) being able to use simpler wiring methods (MC, etc. as required).

It can easily interface with existing wiring. Of course, anything other than 120v motors will need relays/contactors to use this method.

Before:

[Linked Image from fineelectricco.com]


After:

[Linked Image from fineelectricco.com]

[This message has been edited by Larry Fine (edited 08-18-2006).]


Larry Fine
Fine Electric Co.
fineelectricco.com
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 17
C
Member
Thanks for your replies,Larry Fine How many controls do this fire suppression systems have?or How complicated they can get? beside turning off fans,turning on alarms,gas valves off,Friers:What else do they have? I have nerver done one but have several jobs coming up and would like to have as much info as possible.
Thanks for your time guy`s [Linked Image] [Linked Image] [Linked Image]

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 693
L
Member
I've only done the electrical portion, usually refits of existing kitchens with existing fan hoods. Sometimes, there's only an exhaust fan; sometimes there's one switch, sometimes two; sometimes one of the fans is a 2-speed, etc.

In any case, the basic requirements, when tripped, are (1) that the intake fan goes off and the exhaust fan goes on, regardless of the switch position, and (2) that anything electrical under the hood lose power.

As for what I've observed, they run a wire with melt links above the grease traps that is under tension, and when broken trips the gas (if there is any) to shut off and the extinguisher to discharge.

Plus, ther is one or more manual pull stations, typically near each kitchen exit door, that trips the system when pulled. All of these are operated by a thyin wire rope inside EMT with pulleys in the elbows.

Every system is different, but the basics are the same. If the microswitches can handle the current, they can control the fans directly; otherwise you need to control, or add, contactors if necessary.

The simple thing to keep in mind is that you need to place an NC switch in series with the intake fan's switch, and an NO switch in parallel with the exhaust fan. Unless you can use a single section as above, as I do.


Larry Fine
Fine Electric Co.
fineelectricco.com

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