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#68492 10/07/06 01:46 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,391
I
Moderator
Quote
I've always thought that lasers were 100% acurrate?

Well....

It depends on how much money was spent on the lasers optics, the bearings it may spin on and the leveling system.

Most of the lasers we own have a published accuracy of 1/4" per 100' feet.

For my work a 1/4" per 100' is plenty accurate.


Bob Badger
Construction & Maintenance Electrician
Massachusetts
#68493 10/07/06 04:25 PM
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 272
L
Member
When serving large dia' wire on to pull ropes, 350, 500 etc. I will strip out each conductor a minimum of 1' 1/2. After I have all conductors hooked in and around the pull rope. I take three or four of the excess strands and thread them between the conductors, (one at a time).

Using the backside of my kliens, pulling tight as I wrap, creates a nice crimping effect that realy makes the 'head' full proof. For me atleast, haven't had one fail yet. (knock on wood) [Linked Image]


Luke Clarke
Electrical Planner for TVA.

#68494 10/08/06 09:09 AM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 52
T
Member
Quote
Here is another one I just saw yesterday. Usually when I need to space a device out to fush it with the wall (when the opening is cut too big) I will make little springs by curling some scrap wire around the end of my needle nose. Late yesterday on a service call I pulled a receptacle and the previous electrician had used a bit of small diameter rubber hose (like automotive fuel line) and just cut off the proper length and slid it over the screw.


Do you mean, when the box is set too far back to utilize the bendable mount tabs on devices, which were designed to be bent back against the box face edge for this very reason... right?

#68495 10/08/06 10:09 AM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 187
Member
BigB, TCS, try these www.secura-lets.com


Hank
#68496 10/08/06 10:15 AM
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 138
P
Member
I also have removed the tabs with holes from the devices and used those for spacers. Not much to work with though.

I think what he refers to is using a piece of wire instead of a bunch of washers to space the device from the box.

I carry a short piece of polyethelene tubing to do this. Easy to cut, light to carry, cheap to buy. In the 'old' (before plastic pipe) days guys would use 1/8" copper tubing.

#68497 10/08/06 02:25 PM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 814
B
Member
Twin City I have tried that also, I wonder if that is really what they are intended for? That method works good when you have a very uneven mounting service.

#68498 10/08/06 02:29 PM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 98
A
Member
e57: "...could get some of us fired"
I would hope that anything said by anyone on this board would only be used where the job conditions were suitable for the procedure.

Of course, one should not drill a bright screw into a nicely finished floor to locate a hole from below and incur the wrath of and back charges from the gc.

Of course, Al and Bronze are dissimilar metals and over time will allow galvanic corrosion to take place. I was referring to those situations where you are going to be opening the splice in a month or a season and reuse the Kearney. If it were to be permanent, the plastic food wrap idea is an excellent, permanent underlayer. Meanwhile, the new insulated tap blocks are obsoleting the use of split bolts alltogether, so how to do this(keep the rubber tape off the Kearney) is a moot point.

#68499 10/08/06 03:41 PM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,876
E
e57 Offline
Member
My point was that the site is viewed by some that would not know the difference. i.e. the young apprentice, and on occassion home owner or other non-trade persons. Sometimes we have to be carefull about what we say, as if easilly confused it could be bad influence. IMO - all kerneys should be made to be perminent, as there are many temporary installations that end up being 50 years old...


Mark Heller
"Well - I oughta....." -Jackie Gleason
#68500 12/19/06 11:35 AM
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 482
Z
Zapped Offline OP
Member
I just dug up this old thread and I'm still amazed at how much useful information is shared here.

I hope everybody has a few minutes to go through this thread again and pick up some tid-bits. I just did, and I just did!

#68501 12/20/06 01:12 AM
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 18
B
Member
I do low-voltage.

Most of the stuff I see here about drilling a small piece of wire through floors and walls in order to find it on the next floor I accomplish using a toner/tracer.

Clamp the toner leads to a short piece of coat hanger or simular, leave that on the floor next to the wall where you want to drill.

On the ceiling below use the tracer to find it, measure over 6cm and you'll hit the wall cavity.

For drilling down from the attic, I mostly work on new houses.. so all the top plates for the walls are clearly visible between the drywall in the attic. Before I go up I just remember where all the electrical outlets and switches are in relation to where I want to place a wallplate. Then in the attic I look for the top plate, find the wire drops for the electrical, measure over and drill and drop a toned line down the hole. Back in the room I trace the wall for the tone, cut box hole and pull the cable through.

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