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#61737 02/02/06 12:35 AM
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 45
W
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Any one know if NFPA 17 (or any other code)requires electric fryers to have a contactor which opens the circuit feeding them if the the fire supression system is activated. A customer of mine says his insurance company is requires it. I don't think so. As I recall electric fryers only require a hi-temp limit switch. Thanks to anyone who can help.
Bob

#61738 02/02/06 01:15 AM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 939
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Member
i am not sure if i am giving you the right answer here but for most restuarnts with electric fryer if under the hood [ exhaust fan ] yes it have a " electrical shut off " by fire suppressoir system which it will trip the breaker to affect unit.

really the best way to deal with this is check with your state codes it will varies a bit from one area to other and the inspector will like to see that also


Merci, Marc


Pas de problme,il marche n'est-ce pas?"(No problem, it works doesn't it?)

#61739 02/02/06 01:55 AM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 109
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Here we need to put them on a relay with the fire suppresion. Rod

#61740 02/02/06 01:58 AM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 27
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Same Here, anything under the hood (which the fryer should be anyway) has to shut off when the fire suppression system comes on

#61741 02/02/06 02:38 AM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 650
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Even if it is not required by code, the insurance company can still require it as a condition for insurance, or as a condition for a discount.

-Jon

#61742 02/02/06 07:26 AM
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 335
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Around here all eqpt under the hood shuts off (including the lights)and the hood fan comes on when the Ansul dumps.

#61743 02/02/06 08:01 AM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 39
M
Member
Bob,

Without looking I don't know if a code specifically requires it but having an automatic disconnect integrated with the fire suppression system is a good idea. One of the elements of fire is heat.

Ditto for gas fryers too. Or any cooking appliance with a fire suppression system.

Mike

#61744 02/02/06 10:10 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 984
Likes: 1
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The Fire Chief in our town said it well: "ANYTHING that could be a source of re-ignition or fuel gets turned off. PERIOD. END OF DISCUSSION".
Sounded pretty definitive when he said it. I've been following it on every job that I do, wherever I do them, and I've never had any issues with the Fire Dept.
Just try to wire all the stuff under a hood such that you can dump the main on a panelboard.


Ghost307
#61745 02/02/06 08:24 PM
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 19
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My conmpany does fire suppression installs and service. I would like to add some comments. Forgive me, as I tend to ramble. The manufacturers of fire suppression systems refer to NFPA 17 and NFPA 17A for commercial kitchen hoods, ducts, fans and required fire suppression systems. All heat producing appliances are to be shut down when the fire suppression system activates. This includes gas and electric fryers, grills, charbroilers, ranges. Also included are coffee pots, rice cookers, toasters. Gas appliances that shut down by an electric valve need to have a reset relay. The reset relay has a reset button that turns on the gas valve. Without the relay, gas flows as soon as power is restored. Think about the gas appliances coming on at full gas flow, then someone lights one pilot. BOOM. All receptacles under the hood are to shut off. Lights seem to be a local issue. The Exhaust fan can be shut off or stay on. Leaving the fan on vents the combustion gases and heat out of the kitchen. The exhaust fan also helps distribute the suppression chemical throught the duct and plenum. The intake air is to be shut down upon suppression system activation.

When you guys make electrical connections in the fire suppression system box, you are outside the listing. No connections are to be made in the system control box. There may be moving parts that will slam into your wire nuts. And please use insulated terminals on the micro-switch. The buzz I got this morning when I touched the uninsulated terminals was not fun.

The fan wiring should be enclosed in flexible conduit and long enough to remove the fan and lay it on the roof.

When you direct wire the appliances, use a wire that is long enought to allow the appliance to be moved for cleaning.

Thanks for listening to my long rant, and especially thanks to those who install long wiring to fans and appliances.

Douglas Hicks
General Fire Equipment Co of Eastern Oregon,Inc

#61746 02/03/06 12:49 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 116
X
Member
I agree. It is a requirement by NFPA 96, Chapter 10 (10.4).
I just installed 2 large electric griddles in our food service area, under the hood system. I used shunt trip breakers to feed them, and have the shunt tied to the Ansul system. Upon activation of the fire suppresion system, the breakers will trip.


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