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#61728 02/03/06 09:59 PM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 814
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BigB Offline OP
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highground I just ran into a guy who uses liquid nails with 10" lag screws. I guess he drills a pilot hole first, or maybe he runs the lag in then takes it out to pump in the Liquid nails, forgot to ask.

#61729 02/04/06 09:58 AM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,498
T
Member
Quote
Here in New Mexico we have to run UF in the adobe walls, real pain in the caboose.

Well, welcome to Continental European wiring! [Linked Image]
The only difference being, most of our buildings (except for some rural farm houses) are rock solid brick instead of adobe, including all interior walls.
You either need a slot cutter (basically an angle grinder with two parallel blades and dust collector) and chip out what's left between the two cuts (very common in Germany) or a rotary hammer drill with a flat chisel bit (most common in Austria, less dusty and less likely to hit live old wiring). In the old days they did everything with a cold chisel and sledge hammer (usually 4lbs.), for smaller jobs that's still used.
On my summer job we channeled rock solid brick walls for 2 1/2" conduit with hand tools. Go figure...

#61730 02/23/06 11:11 PM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 814
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BigB Offline OP
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Well the long lag bolts worked like a champ, in fact the 10 inch ones got so hard to turn the last 3 - 4 inches I thought they would break. I went and got some 8 inch ones, they hold unbelievably well. Larry, my plan for thru bolting fizzled when I discovered a tiled tub surround right where the panel had to go.
Thanks highground for the idea. I couldn't get ΒΌ inch lags longer than 4 inches so I used 3/8.

Arizona, where you can hardly get a panel to stick to the wall then you spend 3 hours with a 60 lb demolition hammer to drive the ground rods.

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