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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 251
T
Member
I had to change out old 3 wire to updated 4 wire on a range and dryer. I also had to change the cord.

When hooking the cord up, I was expecting to see some kind of termination for the ground wire. there wasn't so I just screwed a ground lug onto the dryer/range and hooked it up there.

The thought crossed my mind to just hook the ground and nuetrals together. but naw... there subfed panels w/ grounds & nuetrals seperated.

Just wanted to check if I did it right or if I could of just hooked them up together.


Shake n Bake
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 220
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usually there is a bonding strap between the neutral and the frame that has to be removed. I cant believe there wasnt one on either appliance. Even if the circuits came from the main panel, you shouldnt hook the grounds and neutrals together on an applicance. I would double check that you dont have a jumper still in place, they are hard to see sometimes.

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,429
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What did the manufactures instructions say ?

Every appliance we hook-up we read the manufactures instructions, and leave it on the appliance for the inspector, as noted in the previous post, the jumper must be removed, and on the instructions they indicate where the ground wire is to be connected.

Joined: Feb 2005
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Mopar man, were you converting an older, 3-wire dryer to connect to a newer, 4-wire circuit, or the other wat around?


Larry Fine
Fine Electric Co.
fineelectricco.com
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 821
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Where I work, if the existing double pole 40 or 50 amp circuit ampacity is sufficient for the new appliance, then we re-use the the feed and leave the bonding strap in place and install (1) new 3-wire cord and receptacle.

[This message has been edited by ShockMe77 (edited 01-20-2006).]

Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 251
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I'll look for that bonding strap. I certainly didn't see one there.

I was connecting an older 3 wire dryer to the new 4 wire.

The 3 wire feed was required to be on a 4 wire. Was a subfed panel.

I'm thinging there was not bonding strap though.. they made them with bonding straps back then?


Shake n Bake
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 558
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Off topic but i just heard "Mopar" and someone here is " Trick 440"..


I hear REAL horsepower [Linked Image]

A.D

Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 251
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oohh ya I was gonna say something about that...

Nope not that much Hp. Its for an ATV its a 400ex bored to a 440.... So ya no mopar here. [Linked Image]


Shake n Bake
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 693
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Sorry. I envisioned a Hemi with a 6-pack.

Here's the lowdown: if you're using an existing circuit, you may use the 3-conductor cable as is, and change the socket (and cord, and appliance) to suit.

If it's a new circuit, it must be 4-wire, with matching socket and cord, and modified (or replaced) appliance.

I once had to delve deep into a dryer to find the white/green junction, in order to open it, because a 3-wire dryer was moved to a 4-wire location.

New appliances have a removeable neutral-to-case bonding strap or wire, and come with no cord, since they don't know where the appliance is going.


Larry Fine
Fine Electric Co.
fineelectricco.com
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 173
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Quote
"The 3 wire feed was required to be on a 4 wire. Was a subfed panel."
The old dryer is of no consequence. It is only a "3-wire dryer" because that is what cord was put on it.
The circuit determines what cord to put on.

Most dryers I have seen have had a green wire run from the grounding screw into the wiring harness where it was bonded to the neutral.
I just remove the wire, cut off the fork terminal and cap off the wire securely.
Then the cord gets wired typically with the green from the cord to the ground screw on the chassis.


Speedy Petey

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new." -Albert Einstein

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