ECN Electrical Forum - Discussion Forums for Electricians, Inspectors and Related Professionals
ECN Shout Chat
ShoutChat
Recent Posts
Increasing demand factors in residential
by gfretwell - 03/28/24 12:43 AM
Portable generator question
by Steve Miller - 03/19/24 08:50 PM
Do we need grounding?
by NORCAL - 03/19/24 05:11 PM
240V only in a home and NEC?
by dsk - 03/19/24 06:33 AM
Cordless Tools: The Obvious Question
by renosteinke - 03/14/24 08:05 PM
New in the Gallery:
This is a new one
This is a new one
by timmp, September 24
Few pics I found
Few pics I found
by timmp, August 15
Who's Online Now
1 members (Scott35), 260 guests, and 19 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3
#59350 12/02/05 09:56 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 524
Member
... Hi gang,... Seasons Greetings to you all,... (now comes the hard part)...
I have been "chosen" by my builder to do the wiring for 5 zone valves all are 4 wire type on a hot water furnace system with a hydronic system going to the air handlers..it's a forced air system and.. "I DON'T DO ZONE VALVES!!",...the HVAC guy,or the plumber is usually the one who does this.. I really have somewhat of an idea of what I gotta do,..but I'm really fuzzy.. Can I get a hand here??? Puleeze!!
Thanx,
Russ


.."if it ain't fixed,don't break it...call a Licensed Electrician"
#59351 12/02/05 10:22 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 827
Likes: 1
J
Member
2 of the leads are usually connected to 24VAC through the individual thermostats and drive the valves open when a given zone calls for heat. The other 2 wires go to a switch that closes when a valve opens. These all tend to get wired in parallel so that any or all zones calling for heat, will start the circulating pump.
Joe

#59352 12/02/05 10:46 PM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28
K
Member
check out the taco site or hunnewell site for diagrams.
Kelley

#59353 12/02/05 10:48 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,457
E
Member
Kelly has the right idea. Also the zone valves ususally come with paperwork that has diagrams.

#59354 12/03/05 01:31 AM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 47
T
Member
2 wires are for 24v and the other 2 wires are for a signal usually 0- 10 v or 4 -20 ma
to drive the valve open or closed, unless the valve has a spring return. the valves with the switch in them i think is used for sprinkler tamper valves

#59355 12/03/05 12:44 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 886
H
Member
Geeze trevman, listen to what the others are saying before you give bad information.

Two leads are the motor that opens the valve, remove the power and a spring closes it. The other two leads are from a switch that closes when the valve is fully open.

As was said, usually all the switches are connected in parallel and then to what normally would be the thermostat terminals (T&T or R,W) on the boiler. When any zone valve opens it's switch closes and starts the boiler and circulator.

The motor leads from each valve need to go to it's respective air handler. The controls there need to provide the 24 volts to it when the thermostat calls for heat. This can be done in a number of ways and might even require an additional relay and transformer on your part. Depends on what's there. let us know.

-Hal

[This message has been edited by hbiss (edited 12-03-2005).]

#59356 12/03/05 01:16 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 16
S
Member
Not all zone valves are spring loaded to close.
Some valves use a spdt TS that sends power to the valve to open AND sends power to the valve to close it.

{edit}
Sorry I thought the discussion was about "water valves, not forced air air duct zone valves.
I should have read the original post better and/or remained a lurker. [Linked Image]

[This message has been edited by SparksNmore (edited 12-03-2005).]

#59357 12/03/05 03:23 PM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 47
T
Member
hal,as far as i know the boiler starts on outside air temp and return water temp.not all valves have spring return, some have 24v at the valve all the time and use a signal provided through a electronic controller or t-stat to tell the valve which way to go.
r is one side of 24v w is for heating and i have never heard of t&t. i think you may be the one with bad info. i highly doubt that a end switch on a valve is going to start the boiler, unless maybe the boiler is in florida where they dont need heat.

#59358 12/03/05 03:34 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 886
H
Member
Well, I'm not going to say that what you talk about doesn't exist but you won't likely see something like that used in this application. Why confuse things?

Any of the current and usual residential and light commercial hydronic zone valves you encounter are from Taco, B&G or Honeywell and all operate as I described. Yellow leads are the motor, reds are the end switch. Power= open with a spring return to closed. Switch closes when the valve is open.

-Hal

#59359 12/03/05 03:42 PM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 47
T
Member
maybe in canada things are different.ive never heard or taco or b&g. the valves we use the most here are made by a co. called belimo and sometimes wirsbo. the best bet is to check the instructions for the valve like previously said by others. i was just trying to generate some discussion on the topic.

Page 1 of 3 1 2 3

Link Copied to Clipboard
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5