ECN Forum Forums General Topics of the Trade General Discussion Area Quality of conduit cuts

I use a sawzall for probably 90% of my pipework.

We do have two portable bandsaws that we will use on big jobs. Mostly because sawzall blades get expensive when doing a lot of cutting. Both tools will make straight or crooked cuts depending on the operator. The bandsaw is slightly faster, but the tool is heavier to handle and is less versatile.

I don't like pipe cutters. They make a nice smooth edge on the outside but raise a big sharp burr in the inside where it matters.

I don't do EMT for a living but in a recent home project I used my side grinder and it was pretty good. The small amount of burr could be knocked out with my pliers.

Long-Time hacksaw user, 1st year Sawzall user (except for larger sized Conduits - always used Sawzall for these).

Having the Cordless Sawzall now (Milwaukee type - 18 VDC cordless w/ 2.4 Ah Battery Packs) has altered my cutting protocols and beliefs so dramatically, I have contemplated placing the Hacksaws in Dumpsters for Permanent logistical storage!

(Translation: Toss the Hacksaws in the trash!).

Portable Bandsaw and Side Grinder have also been Long-Time used tools, when cutting conduit sizes of 1½" and up.
Definitely for Unistrut cuts.

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BTW, Milwaukee is introducing a Cordless Portable Bandsaw - using the 24 VDC, 3.0 Ah Battery.
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As to cuts on Conduits of ½" to 1", having the Conduit secure is the key to achieve repetitive successful "close-to 90°" square cut results.

Secure it by either:
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[*] Clamp the Conduit down to your Materials Cart (or other commonly used device),


[*] Hold Conduit down with your Foot - usually by setting it on top of a Board,


[*] Stabilize the Conduit by "Bridging" it with your legs (wedged between the back of one knee, squat down so it is on top of the other leg) - have done this for many years and still results in the most stable, simple, readily available and successful technique,


[*] Having an "Assistant Cutting Technician" hold the Conduit.
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A slight variance off true 90° cut should not cause any problems.

When it comes to angles of 60° and less, along with Conduit not fully seated into a fitting - or both together, then I could say we have an addressable issue! (or two!)

These may result in:

• Fish Tape leader getting wedged into the void spot(s), making it really difficult to push in the Tape,
• Insulation getting damaged while pulled in through a point of exertion - mainly on a Coupling area in close proximity of back-to-back 90°s, or 90°-offset/kicks,
• Allow Water to enter the Conduit.

My 2¢



Scott35

Appreciate the replies.
My current approach is to stabilize the conduit [2"] with 12LC ViceGrip large locking clamp. I have a tubing cutter and I use that to score a 90º. Then a 32 tpi Lennox hacksaw ro do the cutting -- changing the position of the clamp.
Then a touch-up with a large half-round file. Also a plumber's or machinist's swivel deburring tool [Vargas].
I post this because I got fired for doing quality work like this.
~Peter

My guess is that you got fired for some other reason than quality workmanship, Peter (maybe spending too much time on something that the boss could care less about). Don't let it get you down. People are always looking for a good craftsman. Good luck to you in finding a better job with a better boss.

Dave

Pete I could not fire you but I would proably have you removed from my job.


Pete I am sure you have a great cut, better than the factoory end.

I got to say though if you could not pick up the pace I can not use you on the job. We not building the spaceshuttle , it's EMT a reasonably straight and burr free cut is all thats needed.

Part of being a craftsman IMO is knowing where to move faster.

Most of our guys use a cordless sawzal and a uni-bit on a cordless to ream it.

I would put the practiced guys sawzall cuts right beside your cuts and I do not think the small difference will be worth the cost to production.

JMO, Bob

Unfortunate as this reply may sound, I am with iwire on this one.

Not saying we are passing up quality for quanity, far from it.

That's also why I mentioned the word 'overzealous'. The first contractor I worked for would've given me a few verbal insults as to my speed and then that would be that. Out the door.

I didn't catch the part about the hacksaw before I posted. I have a hacksaw on the truck in case my power saws break, but I haven't used it in years. I'm way too old for a hacksaw.

Try getting something flat and flexible like a piece of paper and line it up on the cut. Mark all the way around with a sharp black marker, throw the pipe against your knee, and hit the saw switch. A quick hit with a reamer or four-in-hand, and you're done.

Dave

My tubing cutter (usually) never sees the inside of a conduit... just enough to score it about 1/2way through, then 'snap' with a bender or over the knee. Hit it with a reamer / handle of a pair of channellocks and in it goes.

When I used to use a hacksaw, a fast and efficient method I learned from my foreman was to brace it against the ladder - there are usually two rivets that hold each step in place on each side rail. Put the conduit between 'em and then put your knee up against it. The rivets keep it from sliding, and then you just cut along the ladder.

Be careful - we had one apprentice who chewed through the leg of his ladder over a year's period by not keep the blade off the rail!

Another variant (once again for 1/2" EMT) was to drill out one of the step rivets on each side, and replace it with a 1/4 - 20 bolt threaded into an I-beam clamp that had the setscrew removed and was secured with the mouth "up". Just drop your stick in there, and you don't need your knee to keep it in one place. It also works as a spooler for feeding wire off reels. Of course, you can't slide your ladder over anything on it's face anymore, but...