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#48230 02/06/05 07:25 PM
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 30
C
Member
Does anyone have a good method for fishing across a plaster ceiling. I only have to go about 12' but the joists are running across at 10" centers and I want to minimize the damage to the ceiling. I was thinking a 4-3/8" hole saw at each joist and drilling through the joist w/ an auger bit but it seems like alot of damage to the ceiling.
Thanks for any suggestions.

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 886
H
Member
I've heard that some would use a D'Versibit for this, making one opening and using it to drill maybe two or three joists. I have never been very sucessful with them. Besides, I always like to see what I'm drilling into. Never know what is running with the joists.

-Hal

Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,233
H
Member
CVelectric,

I agree with hbiss, but before I drill through rafters with one of those long bits, I would make a small hole with a long thin screwdriver along side of the rafter. I would then stick the screwdriver ( Or a piece of wire) inside of the hole to make sure that there was no pipes, or wire runing alongside the next rafter. Once I knew that the path was clear, then I would drill the hole. You might have to patch up several small holes alongside each roof rafter ( or floor joist) but it is well worth patching a very tiny small hole then drilling through a large waste pipe.

Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 687
A
Member
We use an auger bit 1 1/4 - 1 3/8 and the more solid extenions, I think they are 3/8". I like the kind with noches in the shaft where it couples to the next one to keep it from comming apart. Nothing worse then when your set up comes apart in the cieling. Oh ya, there is. If you drill thru the next floor or roof. Had some close calls. You want to drill as harizontal as possable. If your allready working from a hole cut in the cieling like a 6" can cut out you can't drill strait. It drills at an angle up. That will limit you to 3-4 joists. You can drill the same from the other side. Try to drill strait tward your target or it will make fishing harder.

Your not going to make 12' unless you have a large open space into the side of the joists like a garage or utility room. About 6' in the middle you will be short. I would just notch the bottom of the joist and drywall/plaster about 1" wide by 6". It' does not take much. Just enough for the wip and a strap to be under the finished cieling.

Some bit work better then others. I like the orignal auger cause it seems to cut on reverse. So it wount get stuck as easy. Sharp bits will help. If the angle drill gets too close to the drywall put a piece of cardboard between it. This will keep you from marking the cieling.

Try to listen and get a feel for what your drilling. If it takes too long to go thru you might be cutting into the prywood upstairs (too high). Any noise for contact with a pipe. Does not hurt to pull it out and check with a flashlight. Go upstairs and look to see where a bathroom is to warn you where pipes should be.

Maybe someone elce can do better with those deversabits but I don't like them.

Tom

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,876
E
e57 Offline
Member
Lost count of F.U.'s with a Diversabit. Stopped using them due to bad luck.

Here are some more memorable ones:
Hardwood floor
Lighting circuit
Water line
And my personal favorite, the house next door. Almost bought a pricey painting that day.

cvelectric, your idea seems fine to me. Put "No Patch or Paint" into the contract and tear up the cieling with a hammer if you want


Mark Heller
"Well - I oughta....." -Jackie Gleason
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 30
C
Member
Thanks for the tips. Tom I like the idea of notching the joists but I might just go with the hole saw idea since I have to pull a 30a. and a 20a. circuit together. Maybe I'll cut some drywall with the hole saw and screw the pieces into the joists to make it easier for them to repair. I did put in the contract that I'm not responsible for plaster damage. Thanks again for the great advice.

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 494
M
Member
Hi,
What is above the ceiling? Another floor or some attic space?

If there is a low roof you may be able to make two access holes and fish up and over.

If there is a floor on top you have your work cut out for you.

I hate to say the word "Wiremold"?

Be careful when drilling blind! Copper water lines make great targets!

Regards

Greg

[This message has been edited by mustangelectric (edited 02-07-2005).]

Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,064
D
Member
Dversibit? UGH......

I hate em...

Spent hours laying out, "scouting" for pipes and wires only to have the bit deflect off a nail or knot and shoot up through the upstairs floor.

Lucky for me it was carpet.

I go with the notching of the drywall with nail plates from now on...

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 886
H
Member
We all pride ourselves in doing as neat a job as possible with the least damage to the plaster or sheet rock. There is a point of diminishing returns however. It is often cheaper for a painter or taper to patch a bunch of holes then for you to spend hours trying not to make them.

-Hal

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,498
T
Member
No chance of going parallel to the joists? That's the way it was usually done here in Europe. Two small holes (start and end of the run) and you're done.

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