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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 200
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Peter,

I was taught the exact same thing with using the 22.5* and the "super bend". [Linked Image] This journeyman made the point that he actually put wire in the pipes he bent once in a while. [Linked Image]

I end up doing the math and marking out the box offsets too. While I could probably eyeball it, the reference marks make an adjustment easier if I don't get it right the first time. [Linked Image]

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,876
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e57 Offline
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Lttle kicker is ALWAYS MISSING!

Next method......

I have a filed knotch site line* for just shy of 22 1/2, (As I dont have 22 1/2 on my bender. Edge of conduit at the front of the hook of the hook on the bender, second bend is marked at the "A" (or is it "B", I don't pay attention anymore) for the front of the hook.

How did I come up with this.....

Trail and error on the site mark until right. And it dog legs less when the hook catches the slight bend at the back of the first bend. (After the bender wears in, a little oil helps)

Its a repeatable angle if you don't change you posture while making the bend.

Unfortunatly, mounting surfaces are not always flat.

Larger off-sets, I always use 30's (obsticale X 2) with my tape on the floor standing up for the distance to check. (Its a repeatable angle if you don't change you posture while making the bend.)

90's I thumb site the back, skip the take-off, (imagining the round back of the conduit) bend to the top of distance as it radius's past my tape. (Lots of practice, usually very acurate, and I don't do it where accuacy counts like racks on a trapeez)Check square on factory cut rock, or plywood, tile lines, etc.

Multiple bends all get marked the same, and get bent the same, at the same time. Layed out on the floor between the marks I shot with the lazer. The get all hung at once. Less up and downs on the ladder or scaffold.

I also have a few methods for 90's and off-sets that dont require a tape measure that are hard to explain in words.


Mark Heller
"Well - I oughta....." -Jackie Gleason
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,294
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There's the push conduit into corner, mark, flip conduit around and bend on the star method for small sizes where you're going into an inside corner. The EMT stays up a lot better than a tape measure.


BTW-- It's been a while since we've brought this up, but if you want your computer to put in a ° sign, just hold down the "alt" button on your keyboard, and type 0176. Now, let up on alt button. Should be a °.

Try alt with 0216 and you'll get a Ø.
Easier than writing degrees or phase.

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 697
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Thanks, sparkync, that's a really good site.

Dave

Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 8,443
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Not so much EMT, but with PVC here, I can look at what's needed for a certain bend or off-set, even multiples, and bend it right there and then.
It's something I suppose that you pick up with experience.
I haven't had a bend that hasn't fitted yet.
Just as a small question, do you guys put a spring-like thing inside the EMT before you bend it to prevent from kinking it?.
We do with PVC, without a spring, it's the quickest way to make a PVC Boomerang!. [Linked Image]

A
Anonymous
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HOOAA! Trumpy interesting stuff. So you mechanically bend PVC with out heat? The only way I know of bending PVC here in the states is with heat and I have made many a jig to keep it all straight during the time it takes to cool down.

Never had heard of a spring in the pipe but I have kinked my share of bends in larger 1 1/4" plus EMT.

I have always used the Benfield method except for box offsets. Have had a wallet sized Benfield calculator in my wallet for years. Don't bend much pipe these days.

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 886
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Trumpy, an EMT bender, or the correct size EMT bending shoes shouldn't deform the EMT so no inside support is needed.

When we bend PVC (RNC) here we use heat to soften it. This can be from a heat blanket that wraps around the pipe or a hot box (oven). Since the conduit whn properly heated is as soft as a rubber hose the larger sizes- 1-1/4" and above require support. I have always used compressed air. We have end plugs for each size, one of each has a connection for an air line. We connect this to a tank of compressed air fitted with an adjustable pressure regulator. Around 6psi will keep the conduit nice and round.

-Hal

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,143
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Quote
Originally posted by Peter:
Another thing to try is what is known as the super bend -- that is using a larger radius than the standard one shot. This is for 90º. To make it you use your bender like a hicky -- you advance it in small steps and bend the tube at small angles at each step.
45º bends are a killer.

Try using a 3/4" EMT - 1/2" RMC bender for 1/2" EMT...

[This message has been edited by DougW (edited 10-27-2004).]

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 92
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Doug,
I tried that. Crinkled two pipes and gave up that approach.
I think the problem is that the sides of the bender have to closely fit the sides of the tubing so it doesn't ovalize and collapse.
I could see making a larger radius series of benders though.
~Peter

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 697
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I've always done offsets by eye, but now I know why I need a torpedo level with a 22.5 degree vial. Always glad to get a new tool.

Dave

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