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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 939
F
Member
greenline is the best one and i have one for over 8 years now and not even bent yet and take a lot of abuse and i run it behind the right angle drill or hevey duty cordless drill [ Dewalt ] and it hold up very nice for me for my money worth.. i did try other brands but they were not even last long for the money worth..

for any more augar bits ,etc go for greenline,, i know it cost little more than others but it will outlast other brands i went thru with it.

merci , marc

sorry for not being here for long time i was busy working


Pas de problme,il marche n'est-ce pas?"(No problem, it works doesn't it?)

Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 362
Member
Lenox has new auger bits with the tip hardened like the klien screwdrivers. I am amazed at how much better then greenlee, Ideal etc. they work. I have taken out several nails with ease.
I have been using a Hole hawg 300/600 rpm for years!

Ob


Choose your customers, don't let them choose you.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,391
I
Moderator
Quote
I also don't use a bit smaller than the 1 1/8th unless clearence is tight.

Do you nail plate everyone of those holes when drilled through a 3 1/2" stud or are the inspectors in your area just not aware of 300.4(A)(1)?

If your aim is dead center the largest hole you could have is 1" [Linked Image]


Bob Badger
Construction & Maintenance Electrician
Massachusetts
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,044
Tom Offline
Member
If you're going through bits at a high rate, maybe you are waiting too long to sharpen them. If I'm going to be doing a serious amount of drilling, I sharpen the bit before use with a small, fine cut 3 corner file & touch up frequently. Don't forget to sharpen the outside spur while you're at it.

I've been using the same 1" bit so long that I can't remember when I bought it. It is a Greenlee.


Few things are harder to put up with than the annoyance of a good example.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 259
J
Member
"Do you nail plate everyone of those holes when drilled through a 3 1/2" stud or are the inspectors in your area just not aware of 300.4(A)(1)?

If your aim is dead center the largest hole you could have is 1"

I don't drill across bays and I nail plate the top of the stud. Although the nail plate should be on both sides, can't do that on a outside wall no one has ever said anything.
Saying that I have never had a nail or a screw into a wire in a new construction job

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,391
I
Moderator
Joey D, all I am saying is it is something to think about when selecting a bit, as sometime you may have an inspector that picks up on this and you may be putting in a lot of nail plates.

When I did NM in wood buildings we would always use a 7/8" bit just for this reason.

Quote
300.4(A) Cables and Raceways Through Wood Members.

(1) Bored Holes. In both exposed and concealed locations, where a cable- or raceway-type wiring method is installed through bored holes in joists, rafters, or wood members, holes shall be bored so that the edge of the hole is not less than 32 mm (1 1/4 in.) from the nearest edge of the wood member. Where this distance cannot be maintained, the cable or raceway shall be protected from penetration by screws or nails by a steel plate or bushing, at least 1.6 mm (1/16 in.) thick, and of appropriate length and width installed to cover the area of the wiring.

Quote
I have never had a nail or a screw into a wire in a new construction job

I am sure that is true, but it has nothing to do with following the code. [Linked Image]

Bob


Bob Badger
Construction & Maintenance Electrician
Massachusetts
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 42
S
Member
CT wireman we have them rebuilt about 2 times before the repair ctr tells us to forget it. lennox bits and a fine three faced file are what we have best results with.

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 32
S
Member
Thanks everyone for your input! I have resharpening down to a fine science now. I really like the lenox bits, but I don't seem to be able to sharpen them easily at all. Tried grinding the outer de-burring edge off completely, actually cuts real nice now. Too much work to be cost effective. The greenlee naileater II's are real nice for resharpening, but the screw pt. seams kinda crappy. All in all I like the longevity of the greenlees, and it seems, so does everyone else. Thanks folks, best wishes!

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 259
J
Member
iwire, I see your point. It could cause an issue. I have been lucky so far.

Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,527
B
Moderator
In July 2002, I sent an email to Greenlee about touching up ship augers [They’ve probably been making them for ~100 years] and heard back from them overnite. Their answer was almost unbelievable…

"We do not recommend sharpening our tools. There are no instructions for doing so."

Earlier E-C.net posts on sharpening— https://www.electrical-contractor.net/ubb/Forum1/HTML/001262.html https://www.electrical-contractor.net/Forum/Images/Auger_Sharpening.jpg

and https://www.electrical-contractor.net/ubb/Forum1/HTML/003331.html

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