0 members (),
205
guests, and
28
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 812
Member
|
My father and I were getting the supplies needed to wire my traffic signal, and we bought a Leviton 3-switch Decora. Well stupid me put the project on the back burner for a month, past the return date! When I got back to the project, my Dad said, "that switch is back stabbed right," "yeah," I said. "Let's go to Sears Hardware," he said. "why," I said, "To buy some terminal screw single pole switches and a box." Now that I test that switch, a recepticle, and one of the new switches, they all had their back stabbed wires yanked out by hand and they fell right out! Geez, can they atleast make these more secure (AKA no back stabbing.) I salvaged (legally) a couple dozen outlets and switches (and GFCIs) from an old neighbor's house that was slated for demolition. Everything except for the 30 AMP 120/240Volt and the 20 AMP 120Volt in the laundry room was backstabbed. And most of the stitches (single pole) had power coming in their backs, and going out on the screw terminal and back terminal. I thought they were three ways, but three ways don't have three cables feeding them black wires! And I know people who have Copper-clad Aluminum backstabbed, and 12AWG Solid stabbed, and some trimmed and compacted 10AWG stranded backstabbed.
{Edited by the Electrikid on 11/21/2004 for spelling and content)
[This message has been edited by Theelectrikid (edited 11-21-2004).]
Is there anyone on board who knows how to fly a plane?
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 375
Member
|
mickky ---
I just replaced my personal recepts (too many layers of paint).
For 20 years they did exceptional duty in my shop and in our kitchen (1000w appliances used everyday).
They were were all backstabbed 15amp recepts 12g wire 20amp circuits.
No burn marks on the wire at the contact point.
(I replaced them with spec grade recepts with plate clamps.)
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 127
Member
|
Well, here's my opinion on the backstab terminals:
I do not trust them. No, never.
Just my opinion.
No wire bias here- I'm standing on neutral ground.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 200
Member
|
Backstab is the common practice for suites in new highrise construction. Its what my company wants. Speed is everything. Thankfully, finishing isn't what I usually do. I choose to use the screw terminals for all the other devices in the building I don't think anyone touched on this... What I do find with the backstabs is poor installation. Either too much wire has been stripped, or not enough care was taken to push the wire far enough in. No surprise that on troubleshooting we end up finding numerous shorts with the bare bond wire
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 106
Member
|
I would say that at least 50% of my service calls for no power to lights/outlets are a direct result of push-in connections. First question I ask when I walk through the door is "where did you plug in the space heater"? I've seen many many melted plugs like the one posted earlier. They are always back- wired. With a little practice and a screwgun, you can use the screw terminals and keep up with the backstabbers! Pat
Power to the people
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 518
Member
|
I suppose that I'm going to spoil all this fun discussin' by pointing out that I almost never run 15-amp circuits, or use #14 wire.
True, I do not do tract homes for piecework. But- and this get my goat- electricians are supposed to be trained professionals, who are expected to use their best judgement- not meerly be automotons racing through the jobsite. As such, we have to recognise that there are so many high-wattage appliances, and so frequent are the "unusual" changes in occupancy (re: bedroom to home office, garage to workshop) that it is unprofessional to do "the least possible."
Indeed, follow the chats on this site, and you will find many of us make good money upgrading installations that, while "legal," were inadequate the day they were installed.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 202
Member
|
Every outlet I have seen has either rear entry tunnels with a screw to hold the cable or uses an insulation displacement method to hold the conductors. I have only seen one outlet that has stab-in connectors which was an Australian made 115 volt dual outlet (NEMA 5-15R pattern) made by HPM.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 524
Member
|
... In my humblest opinion,they should do away with the so-called "EZ-wire" or back stab feature.UL should revoke its listing,as it IS a hazard!! I can't tell you guys how many troubleshooting jobs I've gone out on,only to find a burned up,charred,back stabbed receptacle/switch to be the culprit.Some of my "associates" say,.."oh well,it's job security",..yeah,but not at the cost of human life and/or property.My guys are forbidden to terminate devices in such a fashion..I don't care how much time it saves,..I gotta sleep at night!! Russ
.."if it ain't fixed,don't break it...call a Licensed Electrician"
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 914
Member
|
I've replaced my fair share of backwired outlets, but not one made since they stopped making the ones that accepted 12 and 14 gauge wire. I see as many problems with loose wires on the side terminal as I do with push ins. I wish all receptacles would be the newer backwire with the set screw.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 138
Member
|
What a great resurrected discussion. I pride myself as doing quality work and even admit to customers that I won't be the cheapest because I won't cut corners. However, I've never given the quickwire receps much thought. I've obviously not seen a problem with them, which isn't surprising due to my limited resi work. I am now going to stop using quickwires, AND I'm going to rewire all the receps in my house.
Thanks.
|
|
|
Posts: 44
Joined: July 2013
|
|
|
|