ECN Forum Forums General Topics of the Trade General Discussion Area Old Electric Meters

sven, what model & voltage meter is it? is it an "A" base or an "S" type. the "S" type is a socket meter.the "A" base is self contained , no socket needed.if it's an A line side is left two terminals & load are the right two terminals.if you hook it up wrong it'll go backwards, unless it appens to be a SANGAMO "H".that's the way they run.hope this helps.ERWIN

Fairly modern form-2 240V meters work OK at 120V. For socket-based versions—labeled "fm2S"—line goes to top blades, and load goes to bottom blades. Just be sure the neutral connection is not grounded anywhere on the load side, or the meter will underregister. It takes roughly a 30-watt load to get the meter disc turning. The label “Kh” is the number of watthours {not kWh} registered per disc revolution.

Thanks guys!!!

It's an A-type meter, style is similar to the one that's wired into that table lamp. I believe it's a Westinghouse. I'm not at home, so I can't pull it out of the box and take a look at it to give any more details (if I recall correcly, it's for AC 110 volts single-phase). The cover over the terminals is missing though (if it ever had one). No big deal....

[This message has been edited by SvenNYC (edited 07-04-2003).]

electure,
Your Welcome. They looked too cool to keep it to myself. My brain is clicking on how to build one for myself. Wonder how hard it is to get a UL listing

sven, if you'll email me your addy i'll send ya a cover for it, they have LINE & LOAD stamped on them.you can send your addy to short62@webtv.net.

OK, I just pulled the old beast out of the nether-regions of my desk.

It's a General Electric, I-30-A for 240 volts, 15 amps, three wires, 60 hertz. A-Base. (Why did I think it was a Westinghouse? )

I put a meter across the four terminals and got continuity when I put the probes across the two outer terminals and then the two inner ones.

In other words:

1 2 3 4

X | X X | X


(KEY: X = terminal screw, | = plastic barrier. The numbers are my own)

I placed the continuity meter probes on terminals 1 and 4 and got continuity. Across terminal 2 and 3 the same thing.

There are also these two copper bridging straps set up above the terminal screws -- with scrwews that allow you to change the way these things are bridged.

Hmmmm.....


[This message has been edited by SvenNYC (edited 07-13-2003).]

hi sven, the little copper links are for the potential coil connections. these are opened for test purposes. if i rember correctly term. 1 & 4 or connected 2 & 3 are the same, the pot coil is hooked across 1 & 2. for 240 volts.it will work fine on 120 volts. just run a little slow. guys correct me on this if i'm wrong.