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#24221 04/07/03 11:11 PM
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1
D
Junior Member
I am about to wire in a 220 for a stove and need to run about 100+ feet of wire (complete opposite side of the house as the panel). My electrician recommended #6 Aluminum and he will be hooking up both ends (I am getting a completely new panel and breakers as well). I have read bad things about aluminum but understand that most problems occur at the connections (especially when mating to copper). My question is if this recommendation sounds ok since this will be a single outlet dedicated circuit hooked up by a professional, is it ok to go with #6 aluminum? Thanks in advance...

#24222 04/08/03 12:25 AM
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,236
Likes: 1
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As long as the conductor insulation and terminals are rated for 75ºC, then #6 Al would be code compliant, assuming 4 conductor cable is being used.

I, personally, like to use Copper #6-3-G (w/#10 Equipment Ground) NM-B Cable when the distance is more than 50 ft.

I tend to completely steer away from Aluminum for branch circuit wiring, and only use it for residential services.

[This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 04-08-2003).]


-Virgil
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#24223 04/08/03 07:18 AM
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,056
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The problems associated with aluminum generally are related to smaller, old technology, 15 & 20 amp branch circuit wiring. It is OK to use aluminum SE Cable for a range, but I don't do it. The copper doesn't cost much more, and in my opinion, using aluminum in this day and age is a "cheapskate" approach.

#24224 04/08/03 05:48 PM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 7,381
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The "key" item to be concerned with is IF the receptacle device that is to be installed is rated for aluminum conductors.

Or, if the unit is being "hard wired", are the terminations rated for Al. conductors?

John


John
#24225 04/08/03 11:08 PM
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 16
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Spend the extra money on copper. You will sleep better. I agree with the other as long as the terminations are rated for Al it meets code, but not in my home.

#24226 04/09/03 12:09 AM
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,691
S
Member
Doesn't aluminium have this nasty habit of expanding and contracting until it loosens the connection at the terminal?

I'd say go for copper....spend the money...do it right and forget it.

#24227 04/09/03 03:03 PM
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 241
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SJT Offline
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Copper all the way. Thats the only way to go on new installations. Range, service, etc.

#24228 04/09/03 07:36 PM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 939
F
Member
majorty of my hevey wireing is copper unless the distance is very long then i switch over to alum. wires but for most branch crks. i use almost all copper expect for service enternce it can be copper or aluminuam depend on service size

merci marc


Pas de problme,il marche n'est-ce pas?"(No problem, it works doesn't it?)

#24229 04/09/03 10:46 PM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,527
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Moderator
Excuse me, but I need to throw a wrench in the gears. The copper-versus-aluminum argument always heats up when the difference in spot-metals prices increases.

Based on long-past ranch, baseball-field and parking-lot wiring—aluminum H-taps {range-taking parallel splices} that handle 2-14AWG cables are bulletproof and very inexpensive, provided you must have access to a suitable crimper and dies, and the enclosure space to allow copper pigtailing. T&B/Blackburn, Burndy and Penn-Union make ‘em.

[In the OP’s case, it may pay to increase the cable size a gauge on over-75-foot runs. A 5% voltage drop corresponds to close to 10% heat output.]


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