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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,923
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G
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It certainly doesn't seem to be working where it is.
That just looks exactly like a solid state switch that is not able to shut off a CFL load. I see it all the time with 2 wire occupancy sensors. (quick flashing when they should be off).
My guess is it is on the edge of it's design envelope and there is something in the environment that tosses it over the edge. What does the manufacturer say?


Greg Fretwell
Joined: Jan 2005
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Cat Servant
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The Manufacturer's response is: 愚蠢的美國人,你從中國買

(Guess this site doesn't support Chinese)

Last edited by renosteinke; 01/29/15 02:49 PM.
Joined: Jan 2015
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T
Todd11 Offline OP
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Thanks for all of your ideas and comments.

To answer some of your questions:

Yes, if I put black electrical tape over the problem PC it instantly stays on and does not flicker. Just a reminder that when I first hook up the fixture it does not flicker right away. But then 5-20 minutes later it starts to flicker and does not stop.

If I put black electrical tape over a properly working PC in the daylight it comes on within a few seconds and stays on. It then goes off within a few second once I remove the tape. It responds quickly but not as quickly as the flashing that I am experiencing with the problem PC.

The fixture is designed for a CFL and all of the other identical 25 fixtures on the property have CFLs and have never had the problem.

When I checked the voltage with my digital multimeter I remember it being a constant 120 or thereabouts. I will double this reading next time I am there.

The way the building wiring is set up is it a long single level building and this fixture is at the apartment that is the farthest from the mast head.

After the power comes down from the mast it goes into a service room with the meters. There is a main breaker for this apartment on our side of the meter and then the line travels about 50’ underground and then about 150’ through the attic past 5 apartments to this apartment on the end.

This apartment has its own panel in its apartment that controls the fixture.

The neighbor apartment (one apartment closer to the meters) is an identical apartment with an identical PC fixture that has always worked correctly.

Although, I don’t think we are leaning towards it being a problem with the fixture. Here is a link to the fixture so that you can visualize it. http://www.amazon.com/Nuvo-Lighting-60-3946-Photocell/dp/B0020S4VS2

Note the PC eye points down behind the bracket arm.

I have not contacted the manufacturer for any known problems.

I will be going back to the property in the next week or so and I will take another swing at resolving this. I will check to make sure all of the connections are tight and check for fluctuating hot, neutral or ground. Anything else you suggest I check?

Thanks,

Todd

Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 7,381
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FWIW, I would have a replacement $45 fixture with me, and do a swap after I checked the voltage, neutral & ground wiring.

Also, could the tenant have a 'timer' on the circuit???

A lot of the 'in wall' timers (electronic) do NOT like CFL/LED lamps/fixtures. I know this from personal experience.



John
Joined: Nov 2005
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J
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Todd,
I just went to the link you posted and went straight to the reviews. They describe almost the exact problem as you have, just a lower flicker freq. They also describe a fix that's similar to the pop can trick I suggested. I agree with those who posted that it's a poor design because it switches at the rate of a motion sensor and not that of a lighting control. I would suggest that you put a good fixture in that location and keep that one as spare. Be thankful that the whole complex doesn't look like a disco revival community at night!
Joe

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G
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From Amazon
Quote
I purchased four of these to update my outdoor fixtures. I loved the idea of the photocell but when I hung the first one, the light flashed as though someone was turning the switch on and off quickly. I contacted the manufacturer and they stated they were having problems with the photocell. I figured, ok, I will have the other three hung and it would just be the original one I hung that would have to be returned. Not so. They all flash so I have to hire the electrician to come back, remove the fixtures and hang new ones I purchased. The new fixtures have a regular bulb instead of the fluorescent bulb which I have been told could also be causing the flashing problem. Loved the look of the lights but it is ending up costing me more for installation, removal etc than the cost of the lights. I would not recommend purchasing the lights. The mfg offered to replace but I am afraid of the same problem.


Greg Fretwell
Joined: Apr 2002
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I wish I had the time to read the comments on Amazon. That's interesting, a bad batch of 'quality fixtures'!!


John
Joined: Nov 2005
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J
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Todd,
If you were to place a straight edge on each side of the bracket arm and tangent to the glass, the extension of that line should NOT be able to point to any part of the photocell. If it does, a piece of wider opaque material should be placed on the back of the bracket, in front of the photocell. I'm not surprised that it takes several minutes to act up because garbage designers, don't need no stinkin' capacitors, or worry about temperature coefficients or Schmitt triggers. It would be fun to tear one apart to see just how many corners they cut.
Joe

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,273
T
Member
The fixture is 'dimmable' -- which means TROUBLE.

THAT's where the multi-vibrator logic kicks in.

I suspect that the fixture's logic is 'hunting' for a stable state -- and is caught in an endless logical loop.

Look to see if you can 'lock out' its dimmable feature.

You don't want it, anyway.

This might be as simple as throwing a sliding switch in the fixture or pressing a 'pin-hole' adjustment tucked into the fixture.

Read the literature about the dimming feature.

You may have to poke around and fuss with it -- because of the terrible cut sheets enclosed by the factory.

[ The Chinese are masters of two great games: 'Go' and 'Guess.' ]


Last edited by Tesla; 01/31/15 01:56 AM.

Tesla
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