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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,273
T
Tesla Offline OP
Member
Reno...

It's a 2-G handy-box... hence no mud ring.

BTW, the original YouTube that I linked to was edited not so long thereafter.

In the original 'Tube he was working with blue latex gloves on an obviously hot receptacle.

That 90 second sequence is now entirely missing.

For the effort expended, I would've installed GFCIs.

As for his tradecraft, It's below what I would expect of myself. I'm more than willing to slow down for old work... and price it accordingly.

There are Romex connectors that fit 1/2" metallic KOs which can be installed afterwards -- and from inside the box going outwards. They are not expensive. Using them would've entirely eliminated the need to hack up the plaster.

The plaster damage at the southwest was no doubt caused by pushing the expanded metal back into the wall instead of cutting it clean. I'd consider that embarrassing collateral damage.

I can see that he gave up on using a 2-G old work box. (Carlon - blue) because the expanded metal and the surface tabs (@ Carlon facing) made it problematic. So I agree with his selection of a 2-G handy-box.

&&&

A tip for anyone cutting into old work:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPLlZ1JGB9Q

Blue tape makes for a superior layout surface... much easier to define ones cutting lines... and able to double check for plumb and true.

For such low cut-ins I prefer to use a traditional carpenter's square during the layout: its wide side is EXACTLY perfect for the width of the common 1-G cut-in box. I merely double check to see if the square is plumb and the floor is level. It's much easier to trace without shifting position (of the cut-in box being traced) when a carpenter's square is resting on the (level) floor.



Tesla
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 5,445
Likes: 3
Cat Servant
Member
Thanks, Tesla, for the details.

I didn't know there were 2-gang 'handy' boxes, nor was I aware of the connectors you mention.

That's an interesting tip about the carpenters' square.

I suppose we all have our own habits. I do agree with the GFCI upgrade.

"Surgical" gloves for shock protection? Well, that's just plain silly - especially when you've already traced & killed one circuit.

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,273
T
Tesla Offline OP
Member
http://www.licensedelectrician.com/Store/RT/Romex_Connectors.htm

Tom Two Way (above) is suitable for ½" knockouts, and installs from inside or outside the box

TT-500

Every service truck should have some.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hd6mKBGUlrQ

This Garvin product can also be installed AFTER the Romex has been pulled through the KO.

1) Pull in Romex
2) Insert Garvin gadget around the Romex...
3) Sliding it up towards the KO
4) Because of the flex built into the grip...
5) You can get away with forcing the Romex + Garvin up into the KO
6) Where it click-snaps into place.

While rated for two Romex (regular way) it is wise to only attempt the above trick with a single Romex in the connector. (You need the extra play.)

Like the TT-500, the Garvin accepts Romex in the conventional manner, too.

&&&

I first spotted 2-G handy-boxes in Home Depot and Lowes. They are not a box popular with commercial electricians.

I submit that they are a better solution for 2-G cut-ins whenever you can place them directly adjacent to a stud. They lie flat and anchor easily.

Perfect depth is easily had by installing scavenged yoke parts from old switches into the handy-box such that they flare AWAY from the box and out onto the sheet rock. These temp attachments leave the interior free for TEK screws or their like to anchor to the stud. (3-point hold)

The result is a rock solid attachment -- with the trims perfectly aligned.



Tesla
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