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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,723
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Broom Pusher and
Member
Passive Crossovers are simple to build, and as Greg stated above, when a single enclosure contains multiple Speakers, splitting and directing specific Frequencies per Driver type is almost prerequisite.

Not only do these Filters direct Frequencies to specific Speakers, they also keep the overall Load Impedance steady, as seen by the Power Amp (Power Amp drives into a more "Steady" Impedance throughout the spread of Frequencies).

I have an Application for designing Passive Crossover Networks, which may include Notch Filters, Impedance Equalizers, L-Pads, etc. for 1st through 4th order Networks built around Two Way and Three Way Loudspeaker Arrays - including Dual Voice Coil types.
There are some examples in the Tech Section, way at the end (some of the first drawings to be posted in the Tech. Reference area).

Send the Loudspeakers' Parameters (Data), along with where you prefer to roll Frequencies at (Crossover Points), and I can produce Xover Schematics for you.

You may wind the Inductors yourself, as that is the most effective way to achieve values close to the Design.
Capacitors may be stacked in Parallel, to achieve the Design Values.
Polypropylene or Mylar may be used.
I would stay away from the cheap Electrolytic Non-Polarized Caps.

The Xover Application may be used in conjunction with an Enclosure Design Application I also have, which makes for a complete Design Package.

As to building Pre-Amps and Power Amps with Op-Amps (i.e.: LM386 / LM387), I built a few Pre-Amps around these Op-Amps, and it was so much easier than the Phonograph Pre-Amp I built using Discrete Components!
It was for a Magnetic Cartridge Phonograph (35mv signal), typical RIAA Equalization "Reversal", with 3 level Tone Controls, Subsonic, Notch & Rumble Filters, and solid Line Level output.
Took eons to build and tweek!

Don't know what happened to that Pre-Amp. Someone took off with it back in 1993, as there were a few "Wannabee Electrical Engineers" hanging around where I used to practice at, and they liked "Fixing Things" which they deemed inoperable... you know the types!
These guys were acquaintances of the other Band we shared the Studio with, and probably attempted to use the RIAA Pre-Amp for something other than a Mag. Cartridge Phono (I am thinking Tape Deck).
When the Audio sounded bad, it was time to "Fix The Pre-Amp".

Things of that nature occur often when sharing a Studio!

Anyhow, good luck with the Project!

-- Scott (EE)


Scott " 35 " Thompson
Just Say NO To Green Eggs And Ham!
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Joined: Jul 2004
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G
Member
Powered PC speaker systems are getting so good these days, that is about all I use. We have them everywhere and I just distribute line level outputs and pick it off where we want the sound (small spaces at a time). I have one built into my LaZboy, my wife has one behind her chair, there is one in the kitchen and one out in the back room. I still have a regular amp and some big sansui speakers out in the tiki bar.


Greg Fretwell
Joined: Oct 2000
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Broom Pusher and
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Mike (Trumpy),
I should have posted a response to the Speaker Enclosures first! shocked

Quote

Guys,
I'm in two minds about the speaker enclosure, what I've decided on is 4 x 8" drivers, I bought a bass port tube and some foam to go inside the enclosure.
I've got enough plywood and timber (for the sub-frame), to make the box any size I like.
It's the actual dimensions that have me really up in the air, I mean you could probably make the box any size you liked (as long as the speakers fitted), but speaker enclosure design is not something I've had a lot to do with.

Any thoughts there fella's?


Enclosure Designs Criteria:

Construct the Enclosures to be as solid as possible. An Enclosure should have a dead sound to it, when knocking on it with your fist.
I have seen Enclosures with a thin Layer of Sand between Two Layers of Plywood.

Build Boxes which are Rectangular - not Square or equally cubed!
Square Enclosures - like a 12" x 12" x 8" Box, will have bad sound.
A Cube type Enclosure - like a 10" x 10" x 10" Box, would be the Absolute Worst sounding Box!

An Enclosure's size will be related to the Woofers' size.
For example; (1) 8" Woofer on a Three-Way Speaker has a Minimum Enclosure Volume of 0.56 Cubic Feet; with Box Dimensions of 16.5" High, 10" Wide, 6.125" Deep.
The higher end Volume is 0.98 Cubic Feet, and the nominal Volume is 0.75 Cubic Feet

Damping materials should be mounted securely to the Enclosure's Bottom, Sides and Back. 1" Thickness is typical.

Mount the Crossover Assembly on the Bottom of the Enclosure, or even better, outside of the Enclosure.
My Xovers are mounted under the Enclosures, on the Boxes' Stand; separate sealed Speaker Leads enter the Box from below.

Regarding the Tuned Port Enclosure:

A Tuned Port will allow you to use a relatively small Enclosure, and still obtain deep Bass response.

Length and Diameter of the Tuned Port is figured per the Volume of the Enclosure and the Tuning Frequency of the Enclosure.

There is a lot of Science and Math involved with Enclosure Designs, but the basics are easy to grasp.
I may be of assistance with the Designs of various Enclosures, so feel free to contact me if needed.

-- Scott (EE)


Scott " 35 " Thompson
Just Say NO To Green Eggs And Ham!
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