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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,233
H
Member
Another trick we used when installing recess lights (Hi Hat Cans we called them.) You never know what is behind the ceiling if you are retro fitting on the first floor. So we would take a piece of #10 wire and bend into the shape of a "C" the top leg would be 1/2 the diameter of the can. For example a 8" can, we would bend the top piece of wire 4". Then we would use the height of the can say 6-8" and make that the middle part of the "C" on the wire. The bottom part of the "C" was what ever was left over.

We would make a small hole in the center of the can. Insert the 4" top part of the "C" into the whole and start spinning the "C" around. Now if you can make a 360 deg spin all the way around, then slowly raise and lower the "C" all the way up the 8", you would know that the cavity behind the ceiling was clear.

If you hit a floor joist, pipe, wire, etc. the spinning "C" would stop or make a metal sound (Ting)when you hit something like a pipe. We would check all the holes before cutting. This way if you hit something in one spot, you might have to relocate a whole string of cans to keep them in a row.

Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,233
H
Member
Another thought, we would keep all cut outs of dry wall circles until job was done. Every now and then a can would fall in the wrong place. We would use that piece to fill in the opening mistake, you just add a piece of strap behind the ceiling, screw the circle of drywall to the strap and tape around the hole.

Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,335
S
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I use blocks of scrap wood for box heights and string when alinement us critical like rows of lights. Floors are lot more level then top plates are straight. Did a show room once where ever other light was 4 foot track and the the rest was 4 foot wrap arounds. Add to the fun the lights ran at a 45 degree angle to the walls. Used string to rough in the boxes and to hang the lights. Everything was laser straight.


"Live Awesome!" - Kevin Carosa
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